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Lolita Charm: October 2010

Sunday, October 31, 2010

She Lived in a Lilac Wood

The unicorn lived in a lilac wood, and she lived all alone. She was very old, though she did not know it, and she was no longer the careless color of sea foam, but rather the color of snow falling on a moonlit night. But her eyes were still clear and unwearied, and she still moved like a shadow on the sea.
-Peter S. Beagle, The Last Unicorn
I could go on forever about what a unicorn means to me. A unicorn is a symbol of hope, of purity, or belief... I've even considered getting a unicorn tattoo. But I'll save this long talk for another time.

I promised you lovelies a popkei unicorn for Halloween and here it is! (You can see the first post with examples of other unicorn girls here.) I can't believe how cute it came out, the hair was the best bit.

Outfit:

Skirt, star socks: Angelic Pretty
Unicorn purse: Pink Macaroon
Jeweled shoes: somewhere on Broadway in Seattle, don't recall now.
Cami: Baby the Stars Shine Bright
Bow: Mousse Chocolat
Stars: 6% Doki Doki
Horn: handmade!

Plus the best photo: the close-up!

So, the horn! I made it out the silky lining of my old formal dress from junior high, stitched into a sort of cone shape and stuffed with fiberfill. Then I glued on pink flat-back pearls and a strip of silver sequins. There's a bow at the base with a gold star charm in the center, and then I mounted the whole thing on a comb to slide into my hair.

My hair is a teased ponytail (or unicorn tail!) When I went to the first party with this outfit, I curled it... But I didn't want to pester my hair anymore, so I added some extensions. I've pretty much trashed my old pink curly wig, but I used a few of the intact curls for some projects. These were some of the curls I had left. I wanted to glue them to real wig clips, but didn't have time so I just used regular hair clips to get them to stay. Then I just twisted them together with my real hair. It even stayed in all night at my family's Halloween party!

I've started tying a lace ribbon round my neck to hide a scar from a recent metal allergy, but it's actually a really cute look! A ribbon round the neck is a very delicate, coquettish style I think. A wide silk ribbon or just a little lace means it can have a very different look. I just borrowed the ribbons from my Bloom OP

I hope you all had a very happy & safe Halloween this year! What did you dress up as?


Unicorn image from smileysquid.tumblr :)

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Saturday, October 30, 2010

Rainbow Date!

Today my boyfriend and I decided to go on a little date before he went away for the weekend, and since it was a special day I decided to dress up in my favorite dress! My yellow Bloom OP was my first piece of Angelic Pretty, and even though it wasn't my first 'brand' dress, it was what really made me feel like I had 'arrived' as a sweet lolita. I don't get to wear it too much anymore because it's a summery, slightly formal style, but I wanted to prove that it could transition to autumn!


Ok here goes! My outfit for today:


OP, cardigan: Angelic Pretty
Shoes: offbrand
Socks: Baby the Stars Shine Bright
Bow: Chinatown
Bag: Hello Kitty Luxe

Sometimes when my bangs aren't cooperating and I don't want to straighten or blow-dry them, I clip them to the side in a little poof. It was in Kera a few issues ago being modeled by Amo, so I had to try it! It's really good for ballet too, it keeps sweat from collecting under my hair! Or blowing around when it's really windy out. Right now I need to trim them...


Mostly we drove specially to a mall with a Hello Kitty store! I needed a new makeup bag (my old Cinderella one is looking woebegone...) so of course I needed Little Twin Stars! It's a little smaller so I don't drag around a huge thing of makeup with me all day. Otherwise I'll carry around four packages of lashes I don't need, bandages, old mascara...


And why was it a rainbow date? We saw three rainbows driving home! It had been gray all day until the sunset... there was a full rainbow stretched right across the highway! I stuck my camera through the sunroof to get this photo. In this photo you can see it was actually a double rainbow! I asked my boyfriend if I should froth at the mouth and lose it like most people seeing double rainbows but he said no XD

And by the way, yes, I finally got my emoji to look right in LC! One tiny line of code... of course. But I think they look really cute for light-hearted posts and I love collecting them, so you're all doomed to suffer through little bouncy glittering things! :P


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Thursday, October 28, 2010

Strawberry Skies Interview!

Meet Manon Marguerite of Strawberry Skies! This new pop-loving indie lolita brand is coming from Australia, with plenty of fresh summery styles for you ladies down-under (wish it was summer here! 3:) Lolita Charm gives you the scoop on everything Strawberry Skies from strawberry space rangers to pink-pocky-printed dresses!

Give us some background about yourself & your lolita style (how you got interested, your favorite brand, lolita idol, etc).

My first experience of Lolita was when I went to Japan in 2006, at the time I dressed in my own, probably terrible, interpretation of FRUiTs style, but was totally blown away by Lolita and knew it was for me. I started off as a sweet Lolita and still am one, but my style these days is much more casual and mature. When I finished school, I was lucky enough to be an exchange student in Japan before I started university. This was an amazing experience, as I could spend my weekends in Harajuku and really see the fashion move. Since I have always loved making things and designing, when I came back to Australia, I decided to study fine art, majoring in fibers and textiles, which has been a great choice.

For a long time, my favorite brand was Metamorphose and I still absolutely adore Kuniki Kato’s designs, but recently I am loving Emily Temple Cute and Jane Marple too. Of course, like any sweet Lolita, I adore Angelic Pretty as well! I guess more than any one brand, I like particular designs, so it’s really hard to say which is my favorite!

Describe your style and inspiration behind Strawberry Skies.

My inspiration comes from all over the place, from other Lolita designs, to artworks, to music or things people mention. I like getting inspiration from everywhere since I’m still trying to define the Strawberry Skies ‘look’. The best ideas always come when I least expect them, so I carry a notebook around with me just in case.

If you could describe the Strawberry Skies style in five words, what would they be?

I like to think it’s ‘Lolita you can wear everyday’.


Are you inspired by other fashions besides lolita? (Japanese or otherwise.)

Otomé style will always been close to my heart, I love wearing my Lolita clothing day-to-day without having all the impractical parts, so otomé is the style I dress in most of the time. I also absolutely love mori-girl and co-maintain the ohyeahmorigirl tumblr, if anyone follows it! I think a lot can be learned from the texturing used in mori-girl. As far as western designers go, there are a few that I absolutely adore, for example Besty Johnson, Vivienne Westwood and Rodarte, but I love high-end Japanese designers like Issey Miyake and Naoki Takizawa too, they’re definitely great inspiration for my non-lolita designs.


Tell us about your thought process for your latest print, Super Berry.

The inspiration for Super Berry actually came from Andy Warhol’s soup cans and the Souper dress, which was released as an advertising campaign by the Campbells’ Soup Company in the 60s, that’s one of the reasons it’s called ‘Super’ Berry. I really love pop-art and was thinking ‘how can I make this lolita’? So, Super Berry is the product of that.

Who do you picture as the ideal Strawberry Skies customer?

My ideal customer is anyone who is made happy by wearing my designs. I’ve always thought ‘at any point, no matter how sad you feel, you should be able to look down and smile at whatever you’re wearing’, so I really hope my designs make people happy and that they feel a sense of pride while wearing them.


Super Berry shown in raspberry and blackberry colorways (not shown: blueberry)

That's such a sweet sentiment, I love it! So, what are your ideas for future prints?

Haha, well, I won’t give away too much! But my December print will be Strawberry Space Rangers, which as the name implies, is a space themed print. This print is essentially ready-to-release, so you can see more about it on my website under the Strawberry Space Rangers tag.

Alternately, do you feel you prefer producing prints or non-prints?

I love both prints and non-prints! I have a line planned called ‘Crayon Box’ which will consist of mostly bold solid colours, stripes and polka-dots. I think non-prints are great, since you can concentrate more on the style of the dress, rather than working around the print to compliment it.

What do you envision for the future of Strawberry Skies?

Once I finish my undergraduate studies, I’m interested in growing Strawberry Skies as a business and getting other creative minds on board to be part of a larger design and manufacturing team. In the near future though, I’m really looking forward to collaborating with other designers and artists and building up the Strawberry Skies label into a Lolita household name.


Strawberry Space Rangers in black colorway (also available in deep purple)



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Monday, October 25, 2010

Separation of Sweet & Aspartame

Lolita fashion's best feature is its nature to evolve, grow, and redefine itself. As time speeds up, technology and trends flash through our society in a matter of months or years rather than decades, lolita fashion follows suit. As we've seen, lolita fashion has changed faces many times since its inception in the early 90s. Many girls may find that the lolita they first learned has changed drastically from lolita today. When I began in 2006, lolita fashion was nearly a whole other animal than it is today. Like Darwin set to fastforward, we can already see the changes happening right under our noses.


One such example of fashion mitosis? Sweet lolita.

Sweet lolita, for those who follow it and love it, has seemed steady and unwavering for years. The pastels, the lace, and the comforting prints that are reborn seasonally. Baby the Stars Shine Bright and Angelic Pretty stand as its two main pillars, both supporting and opposing each other. But now I see hints that sweet lolita may be beginning to branch.


Angelic Pretty, forefront of sweet style, has been honing a new direction for some time now. Bright pastels bordering on neon, more and more elaborate prints, and jelly-shaped hats and ice cream cones sprouting from lolita locks - supported by multi-colored wigs, of course. Is it decololi? Fairyloli? Just different? It's impossible to tell. It takes sweet lolita to new heights (both literally and figuratively, in the case of towering wigs bedecked with jewels, clips and teddy bears) and seems to hold the current reigning crown of lolita fascination, if not actual practice.


Baby the Stars Shine Bright has taken another tack - a retreat back to the delicacy and class that once that characterized lolita. I'm so glad to see them embracing their unique sense of lolita and femininity rather than chase after Angelic Pretty's it prints and customer market. They have resurrected and polished the cherished old-school lolita, turning out pieces that are deliciously sweet but tasteful and elegant. Pastels with black flock, soft florals, and Victorian collars and construction populate their shelves. They are still not classic, not to be lumped with Innocent World's chocolates and bordeaux and sage greens, nor Mary Magdalene's wines and creams. Themes remain the same: cakes, gingerbread, kittens and ballerinas - but they are worlds away from the shooting stars, shimmery donuts, and heavenly colored jellies and parfaits of the rest of the sweet world. A taste of some recent Baby pieces:

(top down: Merveille Doll jumperskirt; Odette de la Lac du Cygnes onepiece; Princess Honey Tea Salon jumperskirt)

Baby's take on sweet lolita is becoming the perfect style for sweet lolitas in transition. Baby, popular in earlier days, has a strongly loyal customer base. Their customers have grown with them through bunny-eared jackets and the early days of heart-shaped aprons; now that same customer base, perhaps one of the first generations of real 'lolitas' is growing up. They're getting married, or having children, or simply moving away from their teens and early twenties. Is this their answer to the previous generation? You don't need to move away from sweet lolita to enjoy its sugar and pretty diamond blues or spun-sugar pinks. Is this their steadfast revival of what lolita should mean to them and their customers - dollish, elegant, charming? - rather than continual half-hearted attempts to follow trends? Are they trying to cater to the dolly-kei and mori-girl crowd, who want fresh innocence and a new meaning to the word cute?

I have always considered it a shame that I have so few opportunity to purchase my lolita clothes in person. Baby the Stars Shine Bright especially suffers from this with the non-Japanese crowds. Photographed, Baby's pieces look unassuming and simplistic. In person, they are exquisite pieces of art and textile, lovingly rendered in sheens and colors that become suddenly present to the eye and touch. It seems that now they finally want to present this side of their brand - not just the obvious like circus printed-this or pony-printed that, but the perfect heart shape of a signature handbag, edged in exact lace, or the crocheted collars of soft and supple turtlenecks. It is a far cry from the popping and eye-catching stock photos of Angelic Pretty, who often reveal thin fabric behind their glittery faces.

Is the sweet world going to crack down the middle? Shall we start calling for more names (God forbid we have the bitter sweet debate again), more subcategories, and further cliques? I doubt it. Sweet has somehow remained united thus far, banding together by color and theme more than actual appearance or similarity. Just as sweet lolitas are completely unlike gothic lolita, they are despite deep differences and styles completely like each other. They are sisters, not cousins - perhaps, if we do mean lolita mitosis after all, more like fraternal twins.

What do you think? Do you lean towards Baby's maidenly sweet or Angelic Pretty's pop sweet? What would it look like to mix them together?

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Saturday, October 23, 2010

Joining the Unicorn Club

Halloween is my favorite holiday, being a little witch & loving the feel of a full moon on my skin! And of course as a child I got to dress up as a Disney (and non-Disney - Thumbelina lovers represent!) princess every year! I'm so glad that even as an adult I refuse to give up the yearly tradition of dressing up, even if it's only for you lovely readers online

Usually I wait for Halloween to debut my costume for this year, but I couldn't resist so... here's a little preview!




Remember these girls, who you may have seen floating around the nebulous world of tumblr? I dubbed them the Unicorn Club, though that's most likely not their real name, if indeed this trend has any. Their defining feature is a pretty popkei unicorn horn-headdress nestled among their hairdos. So you know that I, princess of all things slightly tacky and super cute, had to give it a go! Here's the sneak peak:

I wanted mine to be small and kind of chibi-like, for a baby unicorn feel instead of the long horns shown above! I decided to get thrifty and only use things I already had - odd deco supplies, the lilac silk lining of an old formal gown, and one of my favorites, glittery hot glue!

I'll only reveal my final popkei unicorn on October 31st, Halloween! Look forward to the shimmery, preposterously-pastel creature!


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Thursday, October 21, 2010

Six Impossible Things


It's easy to get lost in the world of today. A typical day for me: up at 7, select an outfit, do my hair, make breakfast, make boxed lunches for my boyfriend and I, go to ballet class, go to my college classes, study, come home, update my blog, and go to bed! It seems like my day is always set to push mode - in ballet, where I push myself to excel; in my studies, where I doggedly read and take notes; even in training my little puffball to behave!

I recently watched the movie Eat Pray Love (which, despite the decent book, was really just two hours of women enviously watching Julia Roberts eat carbs) and the Italians made an interesting deduction about Americans: they have no idea how to savor or take pleasure. We entertain, surely, with a great deal of our time and our pocket-books, but we do not really enjoy. The Italians insist that Julia Roberts' character needs to learn 'the art of doing nothing.' It sounds a very hedonistic idea, doesn't it? Lately my philosophy of life is following at least a little of Momoko's [of Kamikaze Girls] hedonistic teachings. She's often seen in the movie simply looking at pictures of European flowers, or embroidering for no specific purpose. And of course she spends much detail speaking of the way French Rococo life was - embroidery, spending all your time looking cute, enjoying 'earthly pleasure' (ahem), and then taking countryside strolls. She says the best aim is to make yourself happy at any cost. While I don't agree with letting this quote take monopoly over your life, there is some truth to her words. One of the reasons I love lolita fashion is that against all odds and all the expectations of other people, it makes me happy. It indulges the part of me that feels impossible to other people. This impossible part yearns for impossible things - like a leisurely day, a princess-like existence to float through. Something that seems so impossible in a world of cubicles, sad dormitory carpets, commutes and dingy cafe tables.

I like to believe in impossible things. I usually believe as many as six impossible things before breakfast.

So here are six - seemingly impossible - ways to add that luxurious magic back into your life. Choose one, or two, or all six - or design your own impossible things. The real trick? Is in believing them. Here are my six impossible things that make my life more of a fairytale.



Read. Read something beautiful and engaging and fantastical. My recent books were all educational, hard-hitting, good-for-you things that tasted like bitter medicine I just had to finish. I read the Corner, a real year spent in the ghettos of Baltimore, and its people addicted to heroin; I read the revealing and biting Beauty Myth. And yes, when you're at family parties or talking to professors, they all sound very professional and grownupish and you can shake your head over the state of this world. But honestly - they're quite draining. There were times when I knew I had to put it down and flip through old sitcoms, because I just couldn't handle it anymore. Whatever happened to pleasure reading - silly, light things that seem full of beautiful words and aching romances? This morning I found one of the books I brought back from Seattle I hadn't read - A Peony in Love. It's a story of a noble-born Chinese girl who suddenly finds her life mirroring her favorite sad opera. It is full of names like Riding-the-Wind Pavilion, and fills the mind with ladies in silk dresses. It's not exactly lolita-themed, but the idea is present: choose something beautiful and frivolous, something that uses many different color words. Whether this is a beautiful picture book, a love story, or a fantasy novel, it should inspire your sense of beauty in some way.



Do one thing perfectly. I've always emphasized on Lolita Charm how important concentration and staying in the moment is. Usually my prescription for this is some kind of hand craft, most notably an Rx for embroidery - it's my favorite kind of concentration. But not every one has the time to start an embroidery project, or learn how to crochet, or to paint in watercolors. So a simpler way to focus inward, on the small details and on yourself is to do one small thing for yourself absolutely perfectly. A good example of this is your toilette. (Not toilet! Toilette is the old word for grooming one's self and getting dressed.) As soon as I step in the bathroom to shower and lock the door, I'm in my own world. I mix a concoction of something for my hair - a few kinds of pink syrup mixed with a ton of cream conditioner and a liberal sprinkle of candy powder like fairy dust - and afterwards, trim and file my nails. No matter where I have to be, who's calling, or when I have to be there, I am going to complete these tasks with as much perfection as I like. If you don't have the time to do something as long as a full grooming session, do something smaller for yourself. Keeping a pretty nail file in your bag for train rides or a bottle of polish for your break between classes would do nicely. Fold one perfect paper crane or sign your name is perfect script. Anything that makes you happy and you enjoy giving your attention to is a good candidate.


Carry one perfectly beautiful thing. I take this to the extreme. I am no ordinary girl and I refuse to surround myself with ordinary things. I long ago made a vow that every thing in my purse would be cute and reflect my individual style, and I've worked hard to make that come true! But you don't have to cuteify your entire life to feel that momentary pleasure from a pretty object. A beautiful pen, a handkerchief, or keyring could be your item. Perhaps it's something more personal like a locket or a strip of purikura with your best friends. Even pill cases or USB flash drive can be your touchstone. My item right now is my pearl pink Hello Kitty wallet - it's exactly my taste, and I always have it with me and use it often. I'm always reminded of beautiful things and my lolita lifestyle when I use it, even in jeans or work-out clothes.


Love one thing regardless of everything else. I suppose as lolitas we often already do this - despite everyone else's opinion, we love lolita fashion! But even in our fashion or in our small worlds there are things we like, but do not have the courage to fully love. They're strange... we're not sure if we like them or not, but somehow we dream of them night and day! Do you secretly want to wear usamimi with a lolita outfit? Or maybe something off-the-wall like Baby's lacey cat ears? Angelic Pretty's fluffy all-over furry pimp coats of seasons past? Or, outside of the world of fashion - anything else that seems ridiculous. For a long time I thought I could never dance ballet unless I started as a child and was drilled since the age of 3 or 4. Even the woman at the dance studio who sold me my ballet shoes made it clear she thought my case was hopeless. And just a few days ago I choreographed and performed my first dance to a series of musical bells from Carol of the Dolls. I was shaking like a leaf, but it was worth it! I suppose that's just a different kind of believing impossible things.


Write yourself a poem... or love letter or even a list! Poems, or long flowery love letters, or even pillow-book-like lists are a lovely sentiment. The best poems ever written are written to one's self. Don't be afraid to write about yourself or be thinking of how vain it is to write to yourself. Appreciate all the little quirks and details you love and treasure about yourself that no one else knows. Let your imagination and words run wild. Have you always dreamt of someone comparing you to an animal or historical figure? Have you wished for a swan-like neck, or doe eyes, or the gait of a fawn? Don't wait for a lover or friend to recognize them - love them now! If you're still shy, consider writing to yourself in the third person - as if you are a stranger observing yourself, or as if you are observing another person. You needn't ever show these poems or letters to anyone - they're just for you. Here are a few topics to inspire you:
  • your favorite flower, and why, or how you resemble it;
  • your zodiac sign, or birth month, or birthstone;
  • secret habits of yours no one else knows;
  • an ode to your favorite dress or lolita item, and how it represents you;
  • what it would be like yourself as if you were a stranger. Do you have lowered lashes, a tripping step like a sandpiper, or a way of licking a spoon like no one else does?

Lolita Meditation. I know this sounds wacky and New Age-y, so stay with me for a minute. Lolita and the lolita lifestyle is, to me, a dream that I try to fulfill with clothes - but really is a state of being, a delicate sense and internal place I am trying to find - or perhaps return to. If you've ever read the Secret or anything on the topic of wishcraft, this will seem familiar to you. I daydream quite often about fulfilling my perfect vision of what lolita means to me. This exercise simply makes that daydream more deliberate. What is your vision of a perfect lolita or a perfect lolita lifestyle? Forget the outside world for a minute. If you decide to put in your earbuds and listen to a little 'lolita music' (whatever your tastes may be - my choice today was Kanon Wakeshima and a few violin sonatas) so much the better, but all your really need is a few minutes to close your eyes and leave the outside world. If you could create any existence and world for your vision to live in, what would it be like? Do you favor Victorian houses or baroque Viennese apartments? Do you picture the gardens of Versailles or Villandry, with bowers or roses, or perhaps a sunny kitchen with strawberries on the window-sill and a collection of pink appliances? Take a few deep breaths. Listen to the music as if someone has left it on in an empty room. Now start mentally decorating. You can design anything you like - a room, with every detail, or an entire house. I used to have a hedge-maze garden I always imagined before I went to sleep. Your meditation can change or be familiar each time. Imagine your clothes, your hair, the lighting. Even if you only mediate on this 'lolita dream' for a few minutes, you'll return from your sojourn feeling refreshed and inspired. And best of all, your lolita meditation and its fantasy world are completely free, completely portable and without any limitation.

Momoko's character, as I've discussed in my previous post Momoko, Our Lady of Lolita, isn't the perfect person. But there is something intriguing about the way she lives her life that I can't help but dream about. She is the true lifestyle lolita - forming her own idea of what that means and then committing to it wholeheartedly. Decide on your own six impossible things. Set out to accomplish them one by one. Commit to these things that make you happy as you'd commit to a friend or lover. Commit to loving yourself... something which, for once, may not be impossible.

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Tuesday, October 19, 2010

Overdressed

In class the other day my economics professor was bemoaning the cultural loss of the suit and tie on campus (he's old-fashioned like that). My scholarly colleagues, of course, wore mostly T-shirts and jeans. I, the odd girl out, wore some semblance of casual lolita - skirt, blouse, but no elaborate hair or petticoats. After a few more wistful daydreams of the good ol' days, he slips in the kicker: "Enjoy the t-shirts while they last. It'll be suits and button-downs for you all very soon." Everyone felt the bittersweet taste of graduation in their mouths. College, with its laissez-faire, anything-goes style would not last for long. Some students in my academic hall (the School of Business) were already showing signs of transforming into grey and pinstripe butterflies - some young men in button downs and khakis, but mostly girls in razor-sharp point-toe pumps and black satchels, ominously ticking down the halls.

I finger my pink hair, looking down at my lap - corduroy printed in Innocent World's chocolate and almond Cinderella. The clock on my skirt struck midnight.

For many lolitas in high school and college, time seems endless. Caught in the limbo between the real world and childhood, in a place where freedom of expression has fewer restrictions, we become comfortable playing outside of the rules. Yes, there is the occasional disapproving adult or odd look, but mostly dress is free form. Plenty of today's youth have piercings, colored hair, crazy t-shirts, or even the proverbial college girl in cutesy sweats. Some girls even have the freedom to wear their jumperskirts and bows every day - a privilege I am lucky enough to enjoy, but don't take advantage of nearly enough. There are the days when I can't muster up the creativity to pair different colored hearts, or when I simply don't feel brave enough. I punk out with yoga pants, or skip the petticoat and curls for a coordinate that's kinda cute but I know doesn't make the cut. Simply put, it's easy to take my frilly freedom for granted.

Everyone has days like these. Late days, overslept days, too busy days, inappropriate days, hiding-out days. There's nothing wrong with a good batch of regular clothes to head to - the safety of a ponytail and the comfort of jeans. But they creep up on you. I didn't realize they had piled up myself until I was surfing the Internet, admiring girls in frills, and said wistfully, 'I miss dressing up like that...' That was my wake-up call. When I have the time, the ability, the freedom, I should make the most of it. I know there will be a day when my lolita time is limited to weekends and the odd outing, to large events like cons or Christmas tea parties. There will most likely be a day when I'll have a plethora of brunette wigs to wear to work, or demure black skirts with minimal ruffles. It's one reason I love OTT sweet so much - it holds nothing back. When you decide to fill your hair with little clips, why leave out the tiara? Why not add a couple billion star stickers? Or like the girl in the above photo, why not tack a carousel on your head? It's your vision and creativity run amok across the lolita form. If you dream of rainbow ponies, tons of fluffy lilac bows, and socks covered with candy, what's to stop you? Or if you wish for trailing black bustles, birdcage veils of fine French lace, and perfect spiral curls, why wait? There will be plenty enough time to grow up yet. People may say you're out of place. They might say you're overdressed. My own favorite quote, as I look in the mirror and adjust the dangling stars by my ear: "You are not overdressed. The world is under-dressed for you."

Today I wore my new Rose and Little Bird Innocent World cape, trimmed with milk tea fur and tied with a mauve pink satin ribbon about my throat. I styled my hair in puffy fish-tail braids, added bright pink blushed cheeks, slicked on lipgloss, and trotted to statistics class. Life is too short to spend not doing what you love.

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Sunday, October 17, 2010

Australia's Next Top Model Meets Kawaii TV



In the tradition of the Price of Beauty episode, here's another mass-media show where western fashion and kawaii culture clash. Western media usually gives a dismissive brush to Japan's subcultural fashions, and this has its share. But I'm not going to analyze every eyeroll, every Western model asked to wear frills, her faced pained and insulted, wishing she could be somewhere else.

Four Australian models from Australia's Next Top Model (a modeling competition/reality TV show, for those unfamiliar) are taken to Japan where they hook up with Kawaii TV and four Japanese subculture fashion experts for gal, fairy, schoolgirl, and fashion lolita - including the Kawaii Ambassadors Misako Aoki, famed lolita model, and Yu Kimura of fairy-kei/popkei.

It's always interesting to see girls who have no previous interest in the culture or fashions thrust into them. Because of their ages (around the 18 - 21 bracket) I can't help but compare them to myself and other followers of kawaii fashion in a similiar demographic. We've always known that the fashion is not for everyone - to them it may seem strange, or even silly - but it's amazing just how much we differ from these girls. Inside of our bubbles of fashion, magazines, blogs, music and friends, I find it's easy to acclimate to the culture I've chosen to live in. As I tell bewildered strangers, this life and style feels normal to me. Even my parents and close friends are unsurprised when I dash in dressed like a cupcake, a giant pink wig on my head stuffed with bows, stickers and jewels. Of course that's cute, I think to myself as one model is lucky enough to be kidnapped to Baby the Stars Shine Bright. Hop like a cute little bunny in a giant fluffy bunny-eared hat? I'd be delighted. But it's a rude awakening when one of the models derisively speaks of her prize for winning the fashion show challenge... A Baby bonnet, pale pink and fixed with delicate millinery roses. Her hair pulled tautly back, she wraps it around her head and affects a mocking expression with her eyebrows. "I think it really suits me," she says sarcastically, toying with the ribbons. My eyes narrow. Unbeknownst to her are the thousands of girls who would scrimp and save for such a pretty ornament; unbeknownst to her are the thousands of yen it would cost to purchase (most likely 11 to 16,000, roughly $120 - 170 USD). She has know idea how many girls would die to even see a Baby shop, let alone get their personal tour and dress-up time with Misako Aoki, an idol and celebrity in her own right. This harks back to the Price of beauty episode - where celebrity designers and figureheads Maki and Asuka are treated as mere 'Harajuku girls'.

At one point in the video one girls says they tried not to laugh at each other's appearances, as they wanted to be respectful. This, at least, is a far cry from the Price of Beauty episode with Jessica Simpson, which could did not even attempt some modicum of decorum. While the effort is appreciated, I wish they could have taken this challenge more seriously and been more open-minded about the fashion they were experiencing. Although the western world tends to take fashion as one whole, branching down from haute couture, fashion and its principles are quite mutable and diverse across place, generation, and time. Assuming that anything other than the norm is costume-like or inferior is a very juvenile behavior. As stated in the show, many up-and-coming designers begin in Japan. Like it or not, Japan is placing its wedge(d heel) securely in the fashion world.

And, for all of their derision about kawaii fashion, it is worthy of note that the Australian models do not pull off the look very well. The Japanese fashion model (and ergo the lolita, gal, popkei and schoolgirl models) are of a very different design than the typical western model. The schoolgirl expert nervously chuckles about one Australian model's height, and as we've seen many times over in
the Paris lolita fashion shows (Baby the Stars Shine Bright at Japan Expo in Paris, right), there is something missing and out of place with the stereotypical western fashion model in lolita fashion. She can be done to the hilt in hair and makeup, but her sharp features, prized by western ads and runways, are not appropriate. In contrast, Japanese fashion models are preferred to be rounder-cheeked and doll-like, with large eyes and small, bunnyish noses. Many lolitas (Asian and non-Asian, from inside and outside of Japan) known for their good looks tend to possess these features. As Japanese fashion continues to expand, we've seen a change in what some cultures find beautiful - lolitas in many different countries have changed their views to value the same features as kawaii models already. I'm thankful, finally, for my tiny stature - though mainstream American culture tells me that tall, willowy girls are the ideal. These western models are considered very good looking and beautiful in their career field and culture, but what if the tables were turned? It would be useful for a model to keep exposures of all fashions and beauty ideals in mind; perhaps one day her career could depend on it!

Unfortunately it's the lolita model in this episode who is the most negative, saying she could hardly keep a straight face and declaring for the off-camera confessional, 'Oh, ew, girly pink!' The other models, some more than others, seemed eager to learn and do well with the challenge, despite being unfamiliar with the fashion.

Are my feathers ruffled from a simple lack of respect, as usual? Is this just more boorish outsider-ness that annoys me? At this point in the game I rarely expect mainstream media to accurately or favorably portray lolita fashion; but I always have that hope that someone will finally get the facts straight and reveal exactly the complex culture we have hidden behind our frills and candy-colored petticoats. I suppose I merely want the mainstream to, if not love, appreciate our unique lifestyle. But whether or not that will occur before our culture passes away (all good things and all fairytales must come to an end, eventually), is yet to be seen.

What are you reactions to the video? If you were unfamiliar with Japanese subcultural or kawaii fashion, would you feel the same as the girls in the video?

Note: This episode aired in September, but I only just saw it online, so apologies if this is old news to you!

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Friday, October 15, 2010

Lady's Lessons: Teddy Bears!


It seems like I've been surrounded by bears lately - teddy bears! I was never a huge teddy bear fan, preferring other stuffed animals like unicorns or bunnies. They're not as flashy as other motifs, like Milky Planet's ice cream world or the majestic, fantasy-driven carousel ponies of Sugary Carnival. But ever since I got my Angelic Pretty bear, I've felt a soft spot for them. I'm not sure what it is about them, but they do look listening and sweet, like soft-spoken friends. So I thought today's lesson could be about the unsung lolita hero, the teddy bear.

The teddy bear is a true Victorian motif. The first teddy bears are, a
ccording to popular myth, an American invention. During a forest hunt in Mississippi, the current American President Theodore 'Teddy' Roosevelt caught no game. His hosts, determined to give him a good time, caught a bear and tethered it to a tree. He refused to shoot a helpless animal. Several
cartoonists depicted the scene, but one showed the President with not a ferocious, growly grizzly, but a soft cuddly cub in the now-familiar upright sitting position. The resulting plush toys, originally made in New York City, were dubbed '
teddy bears' after the President's sparing of the animal. The original bears looked like the one to the right, with tapered paws, long front limbs, and a l
ong pointed muzzle. For a while they were also called 'Roosevelt' bears, and were fashionable for ladies to carry and children to have their portrait taken with. The President even used them as mascots for his re-election. Its popularity with current novelists and musicians of the time gave us the song Teddy Bear's Picnic, inspiring the many other works about teddy bears today.

The other bear evolution is from Europe in the German Steiff bear, which was produced at the same time but supposedly without any knowledge of the Roosevelt bears in New York City. The bear the right is a Steiff bear. The modern, rounder teddy bear we know today (the kind found on Valentine's Day and in Build-a-Bear shops) is made to look cuter and more baby-like instead of the classic teddy bear model, which was supposed to look more realistic.

Lolita fashion has used the teddy bear in every substyle and almost every brand, and they can be made to fit any season (fluffy, flowery teddies for spring and snuggly, wintery teddies for... uh, winter). They go well with sweets, apparently - perhaps it's the idea of a 'teddy bear's picnic' but they've been paired with pancakes, batter, and doughnuts.



seen above: Metamorphose's Honey Picnic (not their only bear print - they also made Teddy Patisserie, below - and here I am ages ago in the black version!), and Angelic Pretty's latest, Little Bear's Cafe.

Not only do teddy bears have an instant sugary feel, they also lend a feeling of innocence and the soft-spoken, vintage edge of the teddy bear. Innocent World's teddy motifs, far from being oversaturated, tend to feel nostalgic and perfect for autumn or winter. Baby's bears, notably their recent Friend Usakumya line, possess a very endearing innocence as well.

Innocent World's Night Bear print; Baby's Friend Usakumya plush bear cellphone strap

Bears are, obviously, also prone to being fuzzy, which is why I think they make great winter motifs. The best pieces for winter are all about texture - soft, nubbly, knitted, tweed, corduroy! Teddy bears are the tzars of texture. I'm currently in love with this soft ode to teddies from MintyMix:


The fabric looks deliciously soft, and the almond color and silky chocolate ribbon ties are to die for! It's open in the back to let tons of curls fall down, making it more of a glorified earmuff than a hat, with the added bonus of storing flat like a traditional headdress. I would jump on it except I'm not sure where to wear it - I'm not sure bear hats are good for college, even when it is snowy out! But it would go perfect with Innocent World's nubbly soft Night Bear coat.

What kind of bears do you prefer? Super sweet and round, or vintagely Victorian? Do you have a favorite teddy bear item? Who do you think would win in a fight - teddy bears or bunnies?!

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Wednesday, October 13, 2010

LVF Contest: Personal Dream Contest

Dalin of La Vida Frills (my wonderful Angelic Pretty angel-in-crime) is hosting this contest and I couldn't resist entering! This is the coordinate running through my candy-colored world lately.

Ever since I saw Jelly Jewelry (or is it Jewelry Jelly? I've seen both) last weekend at NYAF on both my lovely Dalin and Lindsay of Lolitas 'n' Cream, I've been on the hunt for the lilac jumperskirt version. I had no idea that this was one of the fabled glitter prints! Some select prints from Angelic Pretty actually have a fine shimmery glitter in the fabric. I know there's Miracle Candy and Dreamy Dollhouse, but I'm not sure of any others.

I wanted a more unusual feel to a typical sweet-print dress, so I decided to go with a sweet-punk theme. Does anyone else remember when Nana Kitade was known for her sweet punk style?



You can see her wearing it and mentioning in this short lolita documentary by IMF. It's really strange to see how far we've come in only a few years - this was shot in 2007, and you can see how different a look it is! If you look closely, you can see that AP's sign only says Pretty - strange! I miss her style presence in lolita, maybe I'll wax poetic about her soon ;)

I adored her and her unique style when she was popular, and sweet punk still pops up occasionally - usually with engineer boots or creepers with some punk accessories. I ran across these milky pink Doc Martens lately on TaoBao and thought they were just the thing to play off. I just ordered a pair through taobaospree.com, here's hoping it all works out! They have a few other colors as well as two more pastels - powder blue and mint green - here, if you're interested. The pink studded belt was also an added homage to sweet punk.

The socks are Milky Planet, made to go with their black colorway, but I thought the darker colors would pop more and pick up the edging on the boots. Chocomint's conversation heart clip in 'ramune soda' and my blue Jelly Jewelry heart ring top off the look, with a pink ball-fringe high collar Angelic Pretty blouse. If I were to really wear this outfit, I'd probably add some brand buttons - I have a black Magical Etoile badge that would fit well.

So - service announcement! If anyone has the lilac JSK of Jelly Jewelry, I'm on the look out! I'd love to make this coordinate a reality!


I'd love to see more dream coordinate entries for the La Vida Frills contest! I think it's so telling to see what girls dream about for the perfect outfit - it reflects how you wish you could be. I love being sugary, but secretly dream of something a little edgy... and I think that comes out in this!

So what are you dream coordinates like? Let's see!


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