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Lolita Charm: June 2010

Monday, June 28, 2010

Angelic Pretty on Film

Since there are big things in the works for LC very soon, I thought I'd tide you lovely readers over with a snippet of cuteness. At this year's Sakura Matsuri, Dalin of La Vida Frills wanted to shoot an Angelic Pretty commercial as part of her final project at film school. With the help of other AP-crazed fans, like Crystal of Pretty Wonderland, adorable Yanise, and sweet Aria, we were able to put together a very cute 30-second spot.



In New York City and the East Coast in general, it sometimes seem like classic and gothic lolita take center stage (especially the oppulent styles of Atelier Pierrot and Victorian Maiden), but with the help of Tokyo Rebel (who routinely provide my sugar-n-rhinestones fix) and the growing hordes of pink princesses, sweet lolita and Angelic Pretty are stepping up on the East Coast. With any luck more girls will discover their love of sweet lolita and lolita fashion as a whole ♥

Stay tuned to Lolita Charm for a special, very merry surprise this week!

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Wednesday, June 23, 2010

Bluehaired Boys

As is obvious from my pictures and endless prattle, I'm an advocate for unnaturally colored hair - the entire rainbow spectrum from shockingly sugary pink to deepest violet. In my previous post from this winter, Pink Please!, I talked about the process of becoming - and being - a pinkhead. Being a pinkhead (or pinkhaired person) has honestly been one of the best decisions of my life. I started out in a dorm bathroom with two chunks of raspberry hair framing my face, then moved on the pink hilights on blonde, and from there was just overwhelmed with color. Pink hair isn't just about looking different for me or celebrating my 'favorite color' - it's about expressing part of who I am. Pink hair is because I am some crazy kind of princess; pink hair is because I really don't need to blend in. It's been a very personal choice for me and I am proud to be celebrating over a year of pink hair this spring! ♥


Recently I welcomed another pretty-feathered person into my life - my boyfriend Matt, who keeps his hair with a river-blue turquoise underlayer. So this post is two-fold in purpose - one, about using unnatural dye for male styles, specifically our experience; and two, because some of my readers have requested to see more of my new prince ;)

I did Matt's hair myself, so I can easily give you the basics of what went into his plumage:

-one box of bleach from the drugstore, Herbal Essences (I was lucky enough to pick up a box n sale for $4, most others look about $9)
-a rat tailed comb, the kind with a long handle ending in a point
-one bottle of my favorite brand of dye, Special Effects, in Fishbowl (you can see me wearing it last summer by clicking here!) This color is just the right balance of blue and green. Matt wanted a green, but I thought a blue would pick up his eyes more - and this color is the best of both worlds.
-tinfoil
First things first, we started off with a clean head of hair and a test strand. This means I snip out a chunk of his hair from where it's darkest - the lower layers in the back, closest to his roots - and tap it securely to a piece of paper or tin foil. Then we put some of the bleach on to see just how long it takes for his hair to lighten enough. To recap for those unfamiliar with the process of unnatural color dying: your must bleach hair first to attain any kind of brightness. The dye itself is like colored cellophane - most easily distinguishable when shown against light colors.
Therefore if you are not a light or diamond blonde, it's best if you bust out the bleach first.
In Matt's case, it took half an hour before his hair lightened to a color reminiscent of honey or peanut butter. We wanted a deeper jewel tone instead of a techno-ish neon, so this was the right choice. I used the rat-tail's comb to select a few under layers in his bangs to bleach, then wrapped them in tin foil so they could develop. Half an hour later, the now-blonde strands get the same treatment - except they get smothered in blue dye before being wrapped in fresh foil. Don't forget plastic gloves when you do this! The dye can definitely stain your hands, nails, and clothes. (Protip: put the best brand away when dying your or your signifigant other's hair!)
If you're shooting for a pastel, let the dye sit for only ten minutes or so - refreshing my candy pink means a very short time on my hair, which is especially susceptible because multiple dyings make the hair more porous, or likely to soak up the color. In Matt's case we were shooting for something darker and more in the denim/teal family, so we left his dye on for about half an hour. For super crazy bright color, you can even leave the dye on over night. There's no developer or chemicals, just veggie dye, so it's safe to do so.
The result? One very happy bluehaired boy! (I'm not sure the term 'bluehead' is ever going to catch on...)
Our next challenge is to dye his beard with a little blue to match. Bleach is likely to irritate the sensitive skin of the face, especially since he has sensitive skin to begin with, so it will be an interesting experiment. But the appeal of a modern French fairytale Bluebeard is too great to resist! Hopefully with a little luck, I'll post photos of his new devilishly bluebeared prince style next!

Links
Buy Special Effects Dye from Amphigory!
click the links on Pink Please! for more helpful and how-to articles on unnatural hair dye!
psst! want to see more secrets about Lolita Charm's Victoria Suzanne before it hits the blog? Follow lolitacharm on tumblr - home of all kinds of pretty inspirations and LC easter eggs!

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Tuesday, June 15, 2010

Yogurt is Not Cheesecake: And Other Lies We Tell Ourselves

Your typical office girl opens up a refrigerator. Inside is a looming cheesecake topped with raspberries, sending her into a craze of thoughts: who the hell left this cheesecake out where anyone could just... see it? Can she eat a slice and then skip dinner? If she only eats half a slice and then a handful of celery sticks, do they cancel each other out? What if she jogs in place while she eats it? Then to her dismay and obvious jealousy, her skinny coworker walks up and says, "Mm... cheesecake. I can't resist!" The first girl says begrudgingly, "You even look like you've lost weight," while her rival smugly reaches for... raspberry cheesecake flavored yogurt.

That's the punchline, girls. Well, according to the marketers, anyway.

What's really going on in this commercial? First we see a battle that unfortunately too many are familiar with: a dessert that you want but shouldn't have. Is this girl dieting or just worried about getting fat? She's clearly not overweight in this commercial - why is she so nervous about eating it? What does she see when she looks in the mirror? How many fad diets has she been on that she thinks 'running in place' while she eats it might be a good idea? What about her rival, the envied, weight-losing coworker? Does she envy the control she has over her own body and desires? Is she envious that she seems to drop weight without any of the deprivation and struggle that seem so hard for her? And what about the girl who tricks her body into thinking it's eating dessert while chowing down on fat-free yogurt? Would she rather chuck the yogurt and eat the real thing too, as she slops imitation goop into her mouth, thinking vengefully about her bikini-unworthy butt? Or is she really so pleased that she can happily 'have her cake and eat it too' like the commercial says? And why is she so concerned about saving the 100-odd calories she gets from eating yogurt versus the actual cheesecake? And craziest of all, the marketing think tank down at Yoplait believes that we should be identifying and nodding along in agreement with these calorie-counting, stomach-tricking, jogging-in-place people.

It's enough to make anyone - myself included, making the dog jump - "Just eat the cake already!"

The average woman has a very weird relationship with food. It's like the Mean Girls quote: "Girls who eat their feelings... girls who don't eat anything." Girls can go on juice fasts, liquidize wheat grass, try eating six small meals a day, eat suppliments, take diet pills, count points, stop eating carbs, cut out fried food, go vegetarian, go vegan, go whole-grain, go dairy-free, go sugar-free, go crazy. We know all that already. Every women's magazine, television spot, radio ad, and late night informercial is talking about how women lose weight. Slap on a few airbrushed models, a couple fashion week photos, and Playboy, and we've got our situation put together.

Let's wander out of the mainstream picture and start looking at our own little kingdom, lolita. As I always chant, lolitas are nothing more than regular girls experiencing the world a little differently. We're certainly not immune to the pressures of food/not food, size good/size bad. As much as we want to escape the confines of mainstream expectations, we still can't escape our own ideas of beauty and body image. Lolita, as a subculture, is based around the ideals of fashion, and fashion is based around the notion of being ideal. Fashion is to create an artwork out of an ordinary human being - to be a work of art. But when the canvas you see in the mirror is not like the ones you want to create, how do you cope? Lolitas are supposed to be doll-like, princess-like, mythical - things of perfection. I would estimate that many perfectionists are drawn to lolita, due to its nature - matching colors, tiny details, complex makeup and rigid structure. And perfectionists are the ones most susceptible to the malice of body image, even to the edge of body dysmorphic syndrome. A friend of mine, after a couple comments outright stating such, now worries constantly about a body part in lolita. Is it the usual hotspots - butt, boobs, waist? No - she's worried about her knees. Instead of picking out cute socks or enjoying a new dress, she's trying to figure out how to minimize her knees - tights? Over the knees or knee highs?


Even I have an on-off relationship with food. I spent five years with an eating disorder (anorexia) before getting help; and as anyone with an eating disorder knows, food is always a question mark. Do I want to stop at a food place on the way home, or do I want to put together something made of rice cakes and hummus, where no one can watch me eat these 15 calorie things? Is everyone watching me at the supermarket, and are they counting how many bags of Doritos in my cart? On worse days, the question might boil down to, "Do I want a sandwich or a cigarette?" As a model, especially a lolita model pressing for that ideal, Japanese-schoolgirl size, food and weight became a question best answered with math: if Baby, the Stars Shine Bright insists models to have no more than a 25 inch waist and you're sporting a 24.5, how big is half an inch between you, a brand onepiece, and the model next to you?

As an added monkey wrench, we're all trying to fit into clothes roughly the same size. Some developments have been made with brands putting out multiple sizes of clothes (like shoes, in small, medium, and large), but for the most part each brand has a figure in mind that they produce for. There's the Baby sized girl, the Angelic Pretty sized girl, the Innocent World sized girl, and the increasingly tiny Mary Magdalene girl and Juliette et Justine girl. Are you lucky enough to be dead in the middle of your favorite brand's measurements, or are you constantly checking sizes and shirring and waist-ties and length? Do you fall in love with dresses you can't fit into, only to get them home and realize the awful truth - or do you have 'thinspiration' dresses, dripping with ice cream cones for an added touch of irony?

When I started writing this article I wanted to be able to culminate with some kind of up-with-people, down-with-beauty-standards, womyn-hood chant. I wanted to say that we, having escaped the mainstream for our own beauty ideals, could flaunt away those body image problems like ribbons on the wind because aren't we special, magical little cupcake princess (breathe, breathe - I know this departs from LC's usual magical princess motto, but bear with me!) But let's face the facts. It's not true. Let's ditch the cheesecake-flavored yogurt-consistency lies and be real.

But I refuse to believe there is no hope. I refuse to believe that 'girls will be girls', that like countless generations of women before us, will forever be pinching cheeks and rouging lips and looking in the mirror and wanting something more.

The first step to getting real? Talk about it. When commercials, photoshoots, magazines, brands and even friends push you that carton of yogurt, pause. Break down the commercials and what they're really saying. Realize that models are air-brushed and go home to empty kitchens, measuring quarter cups of rice. Accept that fashion advice doesn't have to come from online forums and faceless usernames. Stop measuring out food in quarter cups and waists in inches. Measure out food in hunger and energy. Measure out clothes in beauty and comfort. Put down the magazine and wear what makes you feel the most beautiful and confident.

As for me? I went to the Cheesecake Factory - and ate the real deal.

Psst - want some music to listen to while you read this? Try Sticks by Alix Olson.

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Friday, June 11, 2010

Moshi Moshi!

There comes a time in every young lolita's life... no, that's not right. Let me try again. There comes an item in every young lolita life's that she realizes is the most amazing, crazy thing she has ever bought. She couldn't imagine it before she found lolita; even after finding lolita, she can't believe anything this special and epic exists. It makes her want to be more; it makes her want to be better, pinker, cuter, frillier. She want to be worthy of it. She wants to have it for always. Is it her first brand dress? That cake hat? A unicorn-shaped purse?


For me, the answer is obvious.

It's my phone case.

If you've been reading Lolita Charm lately, you'll know my love and current fascination with deco. When I decided to get a new phone for the first time in two years, I wanted to go all the way. We're talking the works - case, swarovskis, pink, lace, everything. After doing some research and snooping around deco image forums, I realized I could not make all that I wanted. If I wanted to have a phone as crazy and fabulous as I imagined, I'd have to hire a professional deco artist.

Enter:
Alice Doll is the sugary and Angelic Pretty-loving label of Alex, who is well-known for bringing the cute. Her works range from phone cases to Nintendo DS cases and even picture frames and art commissions. I loved the style of her previous works - somewhere between sweets and hime, with lots of glitter and bows. So I dropped her a line and waited.

She got back to me quickly and we soon transitioned our chats from messages to instant messenger. Chatting was the best way to work out the final product. I chose a solid pink case instead of clear, because my phone was gray instead of pink - and we picked it out together for just the right shade of baby pink. When she finished the first version, she sent me pictures over IM and we could discuss it right there. I've never been able to work so closely and openly with any comissioner before - it was really tailor-made and customized exactly the way I wanted it.

Here's the prototype:


After some discussion I decided to get both the front and back done - originally I wanted to do the back myself. This way they would match. She gladly agreed to redo the case for me, and after a short time she showed me this:



Which just knocked me off my feet!

After a few more adjustments, this is the finished product I received in the mail yesteday:
(shown here in its texting mode, where it opens like a DS);

The front plate, which is done in several tones of pink swarovski crystals and pearls;

Here's the back plate, my favorite features being the bow she sewed out of satin striped fabric and the lace, which she hand-dyes to get just the right shade of pale pink. She also hand-makes the ice cream cabochons to your color specifications - mine are vanilla, strawberry (pink), and lavender (which, by the way, is a real flavor at my local ice cream stand and a perennial favorite!). The back also features a pink dipped crueller, two roses, a sakura blossom, a teddy bear, and two colors of cream topped with glitter and a few pink swarovskis.

It was the easiest thing to commission this case - she ordered the case, deco'd it according to your specifications, and then sent it out well-packaged and arriving only two days after shipping. We even talked over IM while I opened it, so she got to see my excitement and any problems could be discussed immediately (mostly I wasn't putting it on right for a minute... oops!) And for the curious, the final total was only $35. I know I'd spend much more than that on supplies and then trying to replicate this beautiful style - let alone on time and effort that still wouldn't have that touch of expertise Alex gives her finished pieces. I can't wait to take this to my next meetup and show it off!

Alex was a great comissioner to work with and I can't wait to see how Alice Doll continues to evolve and grow, with new products and options :) And you'll probably be seeing more of Alice Doll around Lolita Charm - keep an eye out towards the end of June!
Psst -- check out Alice Doll by clicking here!

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Tuesday, June 8, 2010

Lolitas In the Wired

Thank you everyone who came to see Dalin of La Vida Frills, Crystal of Pretty Wonderland, and myself speak at Kinokuniya Bookstore this Saturday! The seats were packed and quickly turned to standing room only! It was great to see so many lolitas out supporting lolita style and subculture in honor of International Lolita Day :) Everyone looked great, despite the extreme humidity!

Crystal and I at the microphone for our lolita blogging panel


L to R: Dalin, myself, and Crystal after speaking to the audience (photo credit to Merry Wu - thanks, Merry!)


After our panel, Kelsey of I Do Declare and Zoh of Morrigan NYC did a panel on running your own indie lolita brand. (photo courtesy of Pretty Wonderland!)


Here you can see a display of Morrigan NYC's newest design, the Moby Dick print.


Dalin's Revolutionary Revolution (BABY the Stars Shine Bright), my Milky-chan (Angelic Pretty) and Crystal's candy print (Bodyline) in a print shot.


Here's my outfit shot, taken on the way home at the Stamford train station! All items Angelic Pretty except hairbow (Baby the Stars Shine Bright), and shoes (Montreal). In case it wasn't obvious already, I think I'm almost entirely an AP girl now ;3

I had another great International Lolita Day this year - seeing some of my favorite lolitas, delicious Thai food, cream roll cakes from Cafe Zaiya, shopping at Sanrio Luxe, and of course spending the day with my wonderful prince. I can't wait to see what December '10's ILD has in store! What about you, lovely lolita readers? What did you get up to for International Lolita Day this year? What is your dream way of celebrating ILD for this December?

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Saturday, June 5, 2010

Lolita Nation: Vol. I


Subcultures are the vogue of our generation. For years we dissected the youth of the world into categories that seemed, to the psychologists among us, juvenile and two-dimensional: skater, jock, prep, and other high-school worthy labels. But eventually society began to realize that what may have seemed to be nothing more than local hoodlums or 'those weird kids' were actually something more. These groups began to develop their own customs and traditions, their own socialization patterns, their own 'tribe markers' and symbolism, and in some cases, even their own religions. They began to break away from the mass culture of their country and instead divide into smaller sects within it. This was what we call subculture. Some examples of subculture that most people are familiar with: the hippies, the beatniks, the goths, the punks... And now the newer, ever-evolving subcultures of the new millenium like internet culture, fandoms, steampunk, and even... lolita.

For the longest time, both in Japan and overseas, the debate has ensued: what is lolita to its practioners? Is it a fashion style alone? Is it a concept? Is it a state of mind? Is it a lifestyle? Or is it, like those other mold-breakingly attired peoples to come before it, a subculture?

To answer this question, there is the obvious: what makes up a subculture? What seperates subculture from a trend, from a fashion statement?

On the surface, lolita appears to be merely a fashion. It is heavily invested in clothes and outward appearance. Most girls do not spend 100% of their time in lolita fashion, or spend 100% of their time only with others interested in lolita fashion. Does this make it a weekend warrior-style hobby? Is lolita fashion no different than dressing in this season's florals?

When it comes down to lolita, it is not the clothes that seperate us most distinctly from the mainstream. Yes, those layers and layers of lace and petticoats may seem to be what all the fuss is about, but lolita fashion - the adverse choices in clothing we make - is not what lolita is purely about. Lolita fashion does not exist in a bubble, on a page, or in a theatrical production. Not only do we interact with the world as a whole, we are also interacting with each other.

Lolita fashion is the jumping-off point for our subculture. Whether it is the fashion that attracts like people together or like people are attracted to the fashion, it is hard to say. However, it is obvious that one of the most definable traits of someone in lolita subculture is their appearance. This isn't just about fashion (an entire other article could be written on fashion and how this relates to lolita social hierarchy, but I'll spare you this round), but also permanent changes to one's appearance. Just like industrial goth is usually accompanied by piercings, lolita has its own physical markings. Some of the most typical are blunt cut bangs or, more iconically, the hime cut; sweet lolitas may also lean towards unnaturally colored hair and lolitas of any style seem to favor bleach blonde. I'm currently sporting the 'split' - half blonde, half pink - which is in style at the moment. When I am asked about my unusual hair style, I usually want to respond - 'Well, it's in style right now with my culture.' To respond simply with 'in style' would be confusing if you're not familiar with the current lolita scene. In style does not mean in style with the mainstream. The mainstream is following completely different trends based on different nuances of pop cultural media and celebrities. The subculture follows its own trends and has its own perceptions of beauty, some of which may even be counterculture to that of the mainstream.

One of the most prominent parts of a subculture is its shared knowledge, morals, or even history. Lolitas possess at the very least a shared knowledge. This is fueled by the rituals and traditions necessary to execute the fashion style (such as, petticoats go below skirts), but also pop culture and its timeline, and a glossary of words specific to the fashion and the culture's traditions. While working through cultural issues with the crew of American Lolita, it became apparent that half of what I was saying to them was gibberish. "Wait, what is Moi-Meme-Moitie and how is that like Moi Dix Mois?" French accents notwithstanding, we soon realized that what the entire crew needed was a compiled short dictionary translating 'lolita' to English. Think of all the words and simple turns of phrase we inside the culture take for granted - JSK, OP, NWT, cutsew, shirorori, Kikikirara Shoten. To anyone outside of the lolita scene - the subculture - these words are entirely without meaning. But I could say these to any lolita and be understood. And this is only the tip of the jargon iceberg - because lolita subculture is heavily participated in over the internet, acronyms and shorthand are just as necessary. Some of the above terms are nothing more than letters, which stand for different terms - JSK for jumperskirt - which can then be translated into spoken terms when used in real life conversation.

Our shared history is from pop culture - the first Gothic and Lolita Bible, collection of popular models, and fashion trends of the past. Older lolitas recall the days of rectangular headdresses, Angelic Pretty's older prints, or the earlier works of Imai Kira. Kamikaze Girls is also a great example of how a shared fascination with pop cultural media has shaped our subculture. Many girls consider the film an initiation rite into the fashion and culture; many say that the lessons it teaches are the beginnings of lolita concepts and moral themes.

The fact that much of lolita culture is shared and participated in online also contributes to the notion of lolita subculture's shared history. High impact events mostly play out online, and many in the community participate - such as great scandals and scammer alerts. This shared history bonds us together. Those not present for earlier events usually learn of them secondhand - it's often that a lolita will say, 'Oh, it was before my time, but I heard about...' Lolita culture is mostly relayed by word of mouth or secondhand, in what could almost be considered an oral tradition.

Concepts are also part of the culture. Most brands or even magazines provide a basic concept or mission statement to solidify the look and emotion they are trying to portray. Another example is the basic concept of gothic culture - the darker emotions and shadowy style that overlays the entire genre. If I had to choose a concept to overlay the general lolita culture, I would say it is personal fufillment to the point of excess. In a word, opulence. The princess motif, the sweets-to-cavities style, the rise of decololi, all point at opulence - our Rococo inheritance - as our key theme. Other smaller themes are peppered throughout the culture - beauty for beauty's sake, a sense of personal independence bordering on solitude, a sense of entitlement, and a multitude of others. These themes unite our knowledge and media consumption into a mass interpretation. They form the basis for what our culture stands upon.
Dissecting a subculture piece by piece is an exhaustive process, moreso to argue the point. In honor of International Lolita Day, our bi-annual celebration of lolita fashion, community, and culture, I would like to declare that we as a group stand up and be counted as a subculture. This is Part 1 of the series. I will continue to discuss the argument supporting lolita as not just a fashion, but as a subculture throught the following articles. Stay tuned!

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Tuesday, June 1, 2010

June Style Tips



  • In my family, holidays mean one thing: explosives. Summer is a great time to set off some fireworks - I love the idea of lolitas silhouetted by fireworks in the night summer sky. Sparklers could make for cute photos, too - but like all fireworks, please be careful and follow your local laws. (Or don't get caught, but you didn't hear that from me :P)

  • For a safer option, catch fireflies. Get a few large Mason jars and head to a spot where they're known to be plentiful, then go after the little glowing things. You can display them for a few hours in a pretty bell-jar; just make sure to let them go!

  • Switch up your usual lolita get-togethers with a nighttime bistro style tea party. In your garden or patio, string up fairy lights or paper lanterns and lay out your laces and good china in the evening. Drink more unusual, light teas like lavender, raspberry, or white pear.

  • Head to your local water feature for pretty summer photos. Water gardens can cater to a royal style, or get all sailor or mermaid themed to go to the beach. Anchor motifs, strings of pearls, and seashells are all watery ideas for ocean shoots - faux water lilies or even frogs (frog princess?!) motifs could make a cute pond shoot.

  • This month's prettiest beverage is pink lemonade! Originally it was associated with the cirucs, where it was served - and can be tinted pink with cinnamon drop candies or grenadine. If you want to pick some up at the store, I'm in love with Simply Lemonade made with raspberry (for pinkness and hint of flavor). Or make it by hand in the original southern way using grenadine and like in this recipe here.

  • If you're a big pearls-and-gold fan, mimic the warm days and summer sunsets with pink pearls or rose gold. They're my two favorite jewelry staples year round, but they look especially sweet at summer garden parties.

  • For any easy updo, just curl all of your hair in any method you like, and then rumble or tousle the hair up off your neck, either top or both layers. Just clip with a big rose or bow and you're all set - instant casual cuteness. I just use my straightener and can scrape together a hairstyle in under 20 minutes.

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