Lolita Charm: August 2009

Saturday, August 29, 2009

Endangered Species: Lolita

I'm here to talk about a very serious problem. This may not be a popular topic, but I cannot let this go unsaid any more. Even if you don't agree with me, I would love to hear your viewpoint. This is something that affects any lolita who has ever reached out into the Internet for support, information, or simply to make new friends.

We have been given a wonderful gift through the serendipity of our universe - the gift to communicate with and create a community with lolitas all over the world. From the main community, which is over 12,000 members strong, to all of the other offshoots in different websites, forums, and boards, we have been able to interact in a way not possible before. Sharing tips on clothing, organizing events, and swapping ideas and photos has been one of the best things that could ever have happened to the international lolita community. Girls who may not have ever been part of the lolita movement have had that opportunity all through the fantastical technology of our age. We were in the right time, in the right place, for everything to unfold.

But lately, this age is dying. I was motivated to write this piece when even one of my very best friends had had enough. She's an excellent lolita with so much to contribute, but finally, she has decided to leave that Dust Bowl town that is the large communities and simply be part of her own visions. And she's not the first. In the last two months, as the bad went from worse to worst, I have seen girl after girl turn away. They still love the style, the beauty, and in some cases, the lifestyle. They are probably some of the sweetest girls you will ever meet in both real life and online. But they are leaving. Slowly but steadily the beginning of a mass exodus is occurring. Why is that?

The reason most commonly cited is that they can no longer stand the oppressive atmosphere and harsh caste system that has been thrust upon the community. Examples? Projects to bully a particular girl off the Internet, real-life stalking. The constant need to keep up with the gangs lest you be their targets. Graffitied photos of girls too young to even drive, preferably splashed with Photoshopped blood and swastikas. The creation of a community made solely to tear down other lolitas without identity or proof.

Before you scream 'butthurt', it should be noted that these are not well-known members, let alone people who have been the object of harassment and nay-saying. These are ordinary girls who find the current behavior to be appalling.

After the Connecticon fashion show I had the opportunity to meet some very new lolitas. They were so full of fresh ideas, things never done before. I tried to be encouraging, but I knew that if they were ever to voice these ideas, they would be shot down. I didn't want to be the one to tell them that these things haven't been done because people refuse to let them be done. The treatment of scene lolita was a sample of this. Perhaps it was disliked for simply personal aesthetic reasons (and I am one of the girls who dislikes scene style, yes), but it seems to me more that this was denied on the basis of the 'rules'. A great deal of experimentation is rejected in general - walking the line of what is acceptable and what is not is really quite thin. And yes, that’s because there is a narrow band between what is lolita and what is not, but the borders don’t need to be nearly so well protected. The fence is not necessary.

These girls are so full of energy and enthusiasm and love for the style. Their first attempts may not be perfect, especially for experimentation, but that is how anything new begins. I fear that without the resources and support of the communities, there will not even be a new generation for them. The reason lolita needs so much study is that it really is a fairly complex formula to achieve the desired look. The early rules one learns, like ABCs, are the building blocks of the style. Without the alphabet, it would be nigh impossible to learn how to read. Just by looking at the photos, for someone who has never done it before, you’d never get all the nuances right, let alone take it to the beautiful new levels we have. The guidelines of the style, like lace quality and silhouette, are deeply important. But the restrictions on other things, like shoes, hair, tattoos, piercings, and style crossing are not. For the fashion to continue, it needs to evolve. The community needs to evolve.

Unfortunately, it is devolving.

In the early days there were no guidebooks and no moderation, and it was called ‘the Wild West’ days. But in the last ten years we have accelerated from the days of no order to too much, right into a version of Orwell's 1984 with bows. There are claims of vigilantism that are really no more than self-appointed police and mafia; there has been corruption within the system. Do not be fooled. Real vigilantism is attacked, not encouraged. The things people do not want said, those who voice differing opinions, are threatened into silence. I often see this reflected in the recent problems with scammers. Girls are afraid to leave negative feedback for fear of retaliation by that seller’s friends and personal posse. Then when the largest scam of all happens and the seller disappears, these previously wronged customers come out of the woodwork. Surprised? I’m not.

But I don’t speak just for the new generation. I speak for the ones before me, the ones who are also currently vanishing. They have been involved for a long time, given so much back. They are the writers of articles, the makers of guides, the people who carefully cataloged the much-sacred memories and long FAQs. They have staged revolutionary photoshoots. They have taught girls to sew so that even some of the poorest could afford a skirt. They have translated and scanned countless magazines. They have started trends and then revived the older ones. For every single lolita who has ever inspired another, I salute you. This is why I will continue to defend their legacy.

Then there are the girls in between, of which I was one for a very long time. They try to turn away from the ugliness and support only the valuable practices. They want to be above the pettiness, to turn the other cheek, to encourage those who have been hurt by the negative. They don’t want trouble, and they don’t want to even get into the mess. I understand that. I have tried to stay out of these things as much as possible. But the silence of the disapproving has only led to more of the same. Wrongdoing persists when good men do nothing. It is time to stop singing and start swinging.

I had the opportunity to attend the Baby the Stars Shine Bright opening in San Francisco. It was a homecoming and a pilgrimage in so many aspects. For the first, many styles of lolita were out in full force. Not just the perfect girls or the ones with those most power to wield, but all of them, with an equal opportunity to be seen. Everyone tried to look their absolute best, and the effort and love of the style was apparent in every face. I met girls with their hair full of butterflies; shy brolitas with tons of sweets jewelry, melting a soft spot in my heart; younger girls trying valiantly to make their own things; old school girls who looked like they had stepped out of the original inspirational Bibles, in stunningly elegant black and white coordinates; gorgeous kodonas and bonneted lolitas laced with roses. Everyone needed to be photographed, to draw inspiration from.

Not only was everyone beautiful, but I have never met a nicer group of people. Nobody sneered at Bodyline; nobody mentioned how your shoes didn’t quiet match, or that your hair was all flat. Nobody dissed sweets versus gothics, and nobody insisted that brand was a must. Nobody made sideways comments or even perpetuated gossip, which was taboo to spread in person. Everyone was all compliments, everyone was all chatting and welcoming smiles. You could walk up to a group of girls and suddenly be fast friends. Lolitas could be seen introducing themselves in line, examining each others accessories, and discussing the perfect way to achieve a curl. It was something I never wanted to end. This was real community. This is what we should be, even behind our computer screens and faceless replies. Encouraging, interested, fresh. A friend of mine who has been in the fashion for a very long time said that in the beginning, this is how it was. Before the shift towards our own undoing, we had had an unknowing Eden, as unassuming as children. Lolitas today are said to be catty and cruel by nature; even other subcultures consider us to be one of the most vicious to both others and our own kind. But once, this was not so. For that one weekend, it was not so. A denial of nature, or perhaps a denial of nurture?

If this is how the real world interacts, then why do things morph so quickly online? Do we become different people when we hit the switch? Are we, the technology natives of our generation, really so ignorant to believe that these little voices don’t exist outside of that glowing box? To say it doesn’t seem real to you is the refuge of the delusionist and the response of the anti-social. Now that we connect in ways never seen before – video, photos, podcast, email, instant messenger – can we really hide behind that outdated expression of, oh, it’s just the Internet?

Recently, two new websites have come into existence. The first is a new Livejournal community called ask_a_lolita. I was at first rather skeptical about the idea. Questions and discussions were for the main community, right? Wasn’t this a little redundant? I came back a few weeks later and to my surprise, the community was in full use. Girls were asking questions not only about lolita, but also about the unspoken rules between lolitas, how to behave in the hierarchy that the lolita community has set in place, and even such things as ‘can I do this, or will I face harassment and deep ridicule?’ One of the saddest questions was from a lolita who was afraid to let others know that she had had psychological issues in the past, as that has been attacked by a select group of lolitas. In short, the process has already begun. In order to escape the rigid rules of the regime we ourselves have put in place, our numbers are beginning to fail.

The second site that has come alive is The Ugly Duckling, a new blog written by Miss Rose. It has decided to discuss all of the nuances of our culture that we shy away from – the accusations of eating disorders, lolitas in real situations, shopping addictions, and many other darker things that can come as a result of our interactions. I am glad this has finally been brought to light. To touch on these is a very wide subject area – exploring not just us as a small group but finally our psychology as girls operating within the rules of the group. I’ve tried to do some of this in my more discussion-based articles, but I would highly encourage you to make a point of bookmarking The Ugly Duckling. These are things we should be discussing. We are supposedly intelligent women, with a post-modern outlook on life; many of us claim to be feminists, and at the least, certainly educated. So can we really sweep all of this under the rug?

At the Baby tea party, the header designer Uehara-san was asked what it was to be a good lolita and why she loved lolita fashion. She said what the first lolitas always believed: because it is fulfilling the dreams of girls who want to be princesses. To be a good lolita takes the drive to make yourself and the world a better place. The lolita is a girl trying to be a fairytale, to grow into what she had once thought were useless desires. For a long time, we have had the girls who deny this: It is just clothes, I can do anything I want; princesses are stupid. They criticize the girls looking for something more.

I also rewatched Kamikaze Girls at the opening, huddled on a down quilt in the cold San Francisco night. In the final scene, Ichiko confronts the gang. When did this turn to infighting, she wants to know. When did the freedom get replaced with the same rules of the society we chose to leave behind? Momoko may not be perfect, she claims, but at least she follows her own path.

This movie was made quite long ago, now. It has long been the induction movie for new lolitas – but how closely have you watched it? Watch it again. Think how Momoko and Ichiko relate to the modern lolita. Their interaction with the world – do they parallel the modern lolita as she makes her way through life? Momoko herself never actually interacts with another lolita per se – beyond the single shopgirl we see in the movie. I would venture to say that it’s because in her mind, there are no other lolitas – just herself and lolita for herself. I wonder how she would react to another lolita, especially one with differing opinions. Would she be an immediate comrade, or would it escalate into a turf war?

People who choose to say, ‘I have nothing in common with these other people besides my clothes – who cares what they think? I don’t have to be nice to them. They don’t mean anything to me.’ These people are on dangerous ground. It is not just what you decide to wear, but why you decide to wear it. Lolitas are so different from the mainstream, and so small a percentage, with such a sensitive interest. There is a sisterhood there; there is something we all yearn for that we try to taste with ruffles and bows and ribbons. You don’t have to be best friends; you don’t even have to like them, if you so choose. But it is like cannibalism to eat away at them. We are all looking for the same thing, carrying the same feeling inside. How can you deny that delicate emotion in the eyes of someone else, when you know it so well? If you don’t feel that bond, then maybe you are not in the right subculture. If you are doing this just to stand out, or just to get in on the drama, then maybe you aren’t what you say you are.

If you are in favor of something bigger than yourself, if you are in favor of creativity and growth; if you are in favor of girls who gain confidence instead of losing it; if you are in favor of beating the stereotypes of catty females who chip away at their own movement; if you are in favor of a sense of belonging. If you are in favor of lolita fashion and subculture: stop this before it is too late.

Stop this before the lolita…

Slips into extinction.

Labels: culture, discussion

Wednesday, August 26, 2009

Aromaleigh's New Gothic Lolita Line

I'm always on the hunt for the perfect makeup product. In my daydreams, the lolita has glowing skin with hints of some otherworldly color, whether she's enjoying a shady forest or at a hot goth club, dolled up with spooky dresses. The Japanese magazines toll out the effects of makeup all the time - from false lashes to lip gloss - with products often hard to replicate outside of Japan. Nothing is more frustrating than squinting at tiny katakana on a magazine page only to realize you'll never be able to find the same product, even with a shopping service. But never fear, your days of annoyed squints are over. Aromaleigh has come to the rescue.

Aromaleigh is an independent American makeup company specializing in natural, mineral cosmetics. It is a woman-owned company that produces its products in America, and all of the products are made with cosmetic-grade pigments. I've always loved their cosmetics, which, besides being healthy, tend to be creatively attuned to more alternative styles.

So when Aromaleigh announced it was presenting a new Gothic Lolita line, I was admittedly excited. Would I finally find the makeup I was looking for, tailored for the particular fantastical style I was trying to affect?

The photo above has about half of the samples I received - my shimmer brights collection, a sample of Angel Bouquet eyeshadow, and both lip creams. You can see more of the samples - which include eyeshadows, finishing powders, rouge, and nourishing lip creams - plus more makeup photos, on my Flickr gallery.

So, armed with a toilette set full of samples, I invited over my wonderful friends, the darling Miss Lumpy and the gorgeous Miss Julia, to test drive the products with me.

Shown here on Miss Lumpy: Strawberry Despair and Burnt Roses

The eyeshadow is the real star of the line. I received mostly eyeshadow, samples of beautifully romantic colors. This line features a lot of deep golds, beautiful plums and raspberries, and other colors that remind one of Gothic architecture. They go on smooth, and are very powdery - use carefully with a brush to get the best effect. While they look dramatic - especially, I think, the hands down favorite for the group, Gilded Jealousy - they also look quite wearable when put to a whole look. At first, we all gasped - the color was so bold and pigmented, absolutely a center-stage look. But when both eyes were applied, with a little brown liner, the look became more versatile. On Miss Julia, I definitely consider it a day-to-night kind of look. Suitable for a power executive who likes to go clubbing in giant bow platforms, for example.

I was particularly excited about the Starbrights collection, because, if you know me, my brain went, HELLO, PASTEL GLITTER! But I have to say, these are so much more than that - they're not your kid sister's Barbie makeup. These are very delicate shimmers in a variety of soft hues. I wore the color Moonbright with Aqua Nightmare eyeshadow for a unicorn of the sea effect and was very pleased with the result. They're ghostly and opalescent - perfect for that Midsummer Night's Dream look. I think they're perfect accents for the sweet lolita, but I'd also love to see the bluer tinted colors on Gothic lolitas and the warmer ones accenting classic lolitas.

The Rococo makeup style, as popularized even more so by Kirsten Dunst in the Marie Antoinette movie, is finally doable with the Rococo rouge. It's a warm, peachy tone reminiscent of the bright cheeks prized at the time, and is meant to resemble the 'pinched' look. At an event recently, Mis Julia quickly pinched my cheeks for that maiden's flush. But now you can be a lady without the pain, with this perfectly pinched rouge. My only caution would be to use this sparingly with a delicate hand. A little goes a long way, and as always, blend.

The other rouge used was called Dolly. It's a soft, true pink meant more for that old-school sweet lolita look. The rose is a prettier color for less dramatic occasions, something I'd recommend if you want to wear a doll-faced look even outside of lolita. It reminds me a little of the color one gets from drinking hot tea after being out in the snow - a rosy color. I'd love to see it paired with Baby the Stars Shine Bright outfits or Angelic Pretty, really give it the sweet lolita it craves.

I have naturally pretty pale skin in the winter, and owing to having pink hair, I try to keep it pale so as to avoid too much redness in the face. I've always been looking for the right kind of powder to add that extra moonlight look, even going so far to follow a Goth beauty advice forum as a teenager and adding talcum powder to my makeup! (hint: DO NOT do this!) But after trying Aromaleigh's You're a Doll! finishing powders in Parfait and Metamorphosis, I've finally found the answer for my daily dose of moonlight pale. The Parfait finishing powder is matte, while the Metamorphosis has a light shimmer to add a more glowy look. I personally prefer the Metamorphosis powder, but if you wanted to stay away from shimmer, then definitely head for the Parfait. It's a pale color, but tinted very slightly with green, which will bring down redness. For example, Miss Julia has a mild case of rosacea which it alleviated.

Next up: the nourishing lip creme. I have both Shortcake and Pinafore colors, and at first gravitated towards Shortcake for a pinkish shine. The Shortcake has a pearly glaze to a very delicate, almost nude pink - a sugarbare tone. The Pinafore has actually become my favorite - the darker color reminds me of a lipstick I adored as a beginner lolita, which is no longer being made. It's a vintage Victorian rose color and blends well on the lips. It's easy to wear (no stickiness, no smudging, no crazy overly bright color) that almost resembles a stain. It comes packaged in a simple chapstick container and has the added bonus of caring for your lips with lip balm. Especially useful for keeping your lips alive during the upcoming cold winter winds.

All in all, I was greatly impressed with the products. I've worn everything from the cheapest drugstore makeup right up to MAC, and I feel these are right at the top of my picks for makeup. Not only that, it's wonderful to have a line suited towards the lolita style. By which I mean, there is nothing better than opening your makeup bag and: 'You mean my lipstick is named Pinafore?! That's adorable!' It's those cute moments that really make up the lolita lifestyle, don't you think?

As for me, I'll definitely be ordering a couple of my favorites - in bulk, if possible! ;)

Labels: cosmetics, review

Monday, August 24, 2009

Pushing the Envelope: Current Reflections

Recently I've been getting comments like, 'How do you do such crazy things with your outfits?' and 'I want to do more unique things with my coordinates but I'm not sure how.' I love seeing more original coordinates in lolita fashion. They are the life-blood of the fashion, whether you like to make them more colorful, more morbid, or just more eye-popping across the board. But it seems that a lot of girls are lost on this topic. Never fear, pushing the envelope right now is in, and is pretty easy! Here's a list of tips you need to know on pumping up your style.

Buy more magazines, preferably different ones. I've quit buying the Gothic and Lolita Bibles recently in favor of Kera and especially, Alice Deco a La Mode, which is my huge inspiration right now. But pick up anything that hits your fancy - gyaru, otome, even America magazines and ideas. Pinpoint what it is you like about that style and then see how you can fit it into your lolita wardrobe. I bought mine at Kinokuniya, but you can also download a copy courtesy of the_visualbeast.
Don't be afraid of color. In the old school lolita, there were specific rules about wearing white blouses with white lace, not mixing cream and white, limit your colors to two or three tops per outfit, all that. Disregard! There are great examples of this in Alice Deco, especially. The key is to have to colors compliment, not just match.
Go offbrand. Mix other things into your style with Claires, 6% Doki Doki, things you find thrift, etc. I love the big brand houses but as accessories go, the more unusual, the better.
Try out weird trends like giant pink glasses, glitter-encrusted shoes, or furry boots. So long as the rest of your outfit follows the rules, it won't come off as a hot mess. I believe that if 80% of your outfit plays by the accepted rules like silhouette and feel, then the extra 20% can be all you, baby.
If you usually wear black or white basics (for example, a white blouse and white socks), then go for color. Where you normally wear white, try pink, blue, lilac, mint, anything! Gothics might appreciate navy, cream, or burgundy instead of the usual black.
Go for unusual colors in your outfits, as either your main color or as an accent. Creamsicle orange, chocolate, a warm sage, aqua, or plum are all great suggestions. You could either opt to make your own outfit with these colors or wear your own dress with a splash of them. One example would be a soft classical dress with bright coral beads, pomegranate shoes, and a gauzy cream shawl to top it all off.
Start themeing your coordinates. I like to name mine so that I have a jumping-off point, something to fall back on. If the theme is 'Glitterplum Fairy' then clearly the aim is that anything glittery can be put on, or anything that gives that same feel as can be imagined in the title. My favorite outfit on this tip is the lovely Sarah of Pink Macaroon, who, while wearing Baby the Stars Shine Bright's Snow White dress, grabbed an apple from her hotel's breakfast bar. Quote: "Accessory and snack!"
DIY can be a great resource. Try making your own ribbon roses, gluing flatback pearls to everything, or blinging out your best brand pieces with Swarovski rhinestones. Even if you're not a big sewer, modifying or making accessories can add a big punch of originality to your coordinate. One great idea I'd like to try is embellishing a pair of tights.
If you keep all of the other elements (the bows, lace, frills, purse, pearls, and accessories), you can even do more unusual things with the silhouette. Victorian Maiden has put out mermaid tail skirts; pleated, boxier skirts are doable with enough lolita feeling; and longer, maiden-length hemline can really make an outfit stand out. Currently it seems the big trend it absolutely enormous amounts of poof - carry this to the extreme or go back to your roots with a more subtle bell-shape.

One of my greatest desires it to see lolitas doing more with their style. Don't worry about making the style impure from its original origins; even the Japanese lolitas play around. That's how new substyles are created! So get out your wardrobe and start throwing things together, girl! See what you can make out of that same dress you've been wearing for years. It just might have undiscovered potential!

You can also read this excellent article from One Thousand Frills on mixing up your coordinates.

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Labels: fashion, guide

Sunday, August 23, 2009

Dear Celine and Rose Melody Review

I ordered two pieces from Qutieland recently: the Alice trump patterned skirt by Rose Melody and the black chiffon cutsew by Dear Celine. And - they're beautiful.

As I mentioned when I bought my white sandals, I love working with Qutieland. They answered all of my questions, even the silly paranoid ones, quickly and kindly. They were a great go-between for negotiating the shopping experience betwixt myself and the Hong Kong brands. When one of the blouses I ordered couldn't be made due to technical difficulties, not only did I get a full refund and an apology, I also got 15% off my next purchase from Dear Celine. That's fantastic treatment compared to ordering from other brands, who seem to believe that you (and your money) are at the mercy of their whims. In this case, I got some wonderful customer service, which, rare as it is these days, I highly appreciated.

The black chiffon cutsew is made out of a very soft, stretchy microfiber, with working buttons on the puff sleeves. It also has white and black chiffon ruffle detailing around the neck and the hem. It fits excellently and I can't find a single flaw on it.

The Rose Melody Alice skirt is especially one of my favorites. I chose it because the pattern, which appears as only tiny trumps from affair, is actually interspersed with other tiny designs, like pocket watches, drink-me bottles, Alice figures, white rabbits, and card-shaped gardeners. Anything with extra details I'm a sucker for, so of course that captured my heart. The hem has a narrow trim of white lace and large card suits printed onto red and black diamonds. There is a hidden side zipper and quite a high waisted panel, which isn't shown in this coordinate. Along the sides is a pair of small ruched sections with decorative bows. It is also lined with a layer of creamy silk. The fabric of the skirt itself is a sturdy cotton, definitely not to tear or be too light-weight. I also like that none of the colors are too overpowering, especially the red. The red isn't too bright either, but more of delicate burgundy, which leaves me with the hope that it won't clash too badly with my pink hair when I get colored back up again.

So, this is my first attempt at something not made out of pastels and spun sugar! Does it suit?

Labels: review, shopping

Wednesday, August 19, 2009

Part of That World

Finally, the music video tribute to the Baby the Stars Shine Bright opening! The music is the House Disney version of the Little Mermaid's Part of That World, because I feel that the lolitas created a beautiful world we all wanted to be a part of. Thank you to everyone who appears in it and thank you for everyone I have met. You made my experience magical.

Labels: charm channel, event

Tuesday, August 18, 2009

Thank You, Baby!

If Yumemiru Musical Paradise was last year's event of the year, then the Baby the Stars Shine Bright opening was this year's. I have never seen more enthusiasm, sisterhood, and beauty in one place before. The gathering of the lolitas alone was marvelous. And I have plenty to write about this, believe you me - and tons of footage, both photo and video! But I want to speak about the more subtle experience of the opening.

I recently made the speculative post about brand competition, which had seemed neck and neck. Would Baby be able to pull off the opening and if so, could it be the push they needed?

It was. The effect was like magic, like a drug. I think Baby cultivated more brand loyalty in two days, than it has so far made in a lifetime as a brand. By reaching out to us on a personal level, they have finally won back some of their former glory.

We all clustered outside of the New People building, a sea of curls dotted with opened parasols like sail boats. From the glass storefront, the designers and shopgirls watched and sometimes waved, causing every lolita to scream, shout, wave, and jump up and down in excitement. In the time between, music played and Miss Lumpy and I had fun humiliating ourselves by swishy our bustles to the beat.

When we finally entered the building, it was like some frenzied kind of dream - you could see any real item you wanted. You could examine the tiny lace of a wrist cuff, try on rings, and find, like fortune cookies, the few parasols with the pagoda frames. And there were other girls like you - not just the other shoppers, who you could bond with my snagging the item they wanted for them in the midst of the crowd, but with the shopgirls. In Paris, it was hard to speak to the shopgirls - both of us fumbled through French and then gave up and switched to the typical Japanese-inspired lolita language that is generally spoken in heart-hand shapes, exaggerated nods, and shy smiles. But here, the girls could not only help you with finding that particular item, they could also talk to you about sizing, coordinate advice, and hair and makeup.

The next day was the Baby tea party, which began with a gathering frill (collective group of lolitas?!) Everyone looked beautiful. For once, you could see a row of girls dressed in Baby instead of Angelic Pretty, all with their own spin on it - no clones in sight. It was so adorablethat something washed over you like mind control, and I had a deep urge to dash into the store, drop my $300 on the same print, pop it on, and then stand with the group. It wasn't a feeling of conformity. It was the same bubbling of happiness one gets from being with sisters.

At the party, girls chatted and selected their sweets - pink malt balls, lollipops, and a special blend of tea called Honeybush Lollipop Delight. An impromptu concrete picnic began around the low benches (who decided that a gaggle of frilly girls wouldn't need tables for their teacups?!), in a very communal and friendly way. Space was made so that every tea cup could fit; you could crouch down and look at the delicate embroidery on a girl's handmade skirt. But the girls fell quiet when Uehara-san and Misako began their Q&A portion.

They were surprised to see so many of us, they said (and of course this was a small percentage of the international lolita community); they were surprised that we weren't just dabblers who wore a bow, but full-blown lolitas who studied the look seriously and dressed as much as any girl in Harajuku. When asked if anyone had seen the Bibles or other Japanese fashion magazines, every hand in the room shot up - Uehara-san and Misako Aoki reeled backwards. They had no idea, it seems. They had probably never figured it would expand beyond their microcosm, but here they were, some thousands of miles away across the sea, with a group of girls looking for the same things as they were. How do you react when you realize, unicornlike, that there are others like you?

We all had that feeling today. We knew there were other lolitas, yes; this was no surprise. But to see them all in one place, to see that there were people who felt the same ache and followed the same path; that was miraculous. Lolita didn't just exist one the Internet anymore. We had real names and met with real people, simply because they were friendly and interested.

As I escaped the tea party, running to catch a plane like a modern-day Cinderella, I saw Isobe. He was lurking in the back hall, a little shy when faced with so many lolitas. He wasn't used to the publicity, which he preferred to pass off to the adorable designers and staff. I waved at him as I ran off, but now I wish I had thanked him profusely. If it wasn't for his brand, Novala Takemoto wouldn't have written Kamikaze Girls. If it wasn't for Kamikaze Girls being made into a movie, I wouldn't be in San Francisco that day, with a glittery bow and cherry-printed socks. I wouldn't have had friends to blow kisses to as I left. I wouldn't have smiling eyes. I'd still be waiting to bloom.

So thank you...

for letting my petals open enough to see that...

Baby, the stars shine bright.

Labels: event, inspirational

Friday, August 14, 2009

For Public Safety!

Warning! This is public service announcement for all in the San Francisco Bay area. Several signs of suspicious ongoings have been spotted by the locals and management of variation retails and restaurants. They fear the worst: an invasion of the creature known as lolita. Here are a few signs to know if you have the beginnings of an infestation!

Flashes of frills have been seen pelting through traffic and crosswalks, narrowly being avoided by oncoming trucks;
Cookie crumbs and used tea cups are scattered about, typically with wires or Internet hook-up;
A girl is adjusting her knee-highs on a street corner and there is nothing sexual about it;
A mating call of 'look at the architecture!' has gone up around the city, typically at sunset in the historical district;
Local teahouses start taking reservations for afternoon tea due to high demand;
The purikura machines are out of order due to lack of sticker paper;
All of the dessert-shaped erasers at the stationary shop are sold out;
Lost ribbons are appearing on the sidewalk, in mailboxes, and caught on trees;
You fetch your morning paper in slippers and bathrobe only to find a gang of fluffy things snapping photos and posing on the front stoop of your Victorian rowhouse;
The ghost tours swell in number with a array of darkly beautiful guests;
And for some reason, there is a trail of glitter and lost rhinestones near circling around Peace Plaza.

How do I know all these things? I've landed in SF this morning and have been camped mere blocks away from the New People building at the comfy lodgings of the Queen Anne Hotel. Peppered with haunted history and the most beautiful Victorian reconstruction style, it's a lovely place for lolitas to stay. You can read the full review on Miss Lumpy, if you're interested in staying in San Francisco in future.

See you at the BABY the Stars Shine Bright opening on Saturday!

Labels: event, humor

Monday, August 10, 2009

August Style Tips!

A little late, but it is August! Have fun with them, darlings!

Pump up your inner Disney Princess with House☆Disney, techno remixes of your favorite songs like Part of Your World and When You Wish Upon a Star
As cooler weather approaches, forgo the usual socks for a big sock (punnnn) in the face of color - with opaque and patterned opaque tights from welovecolors.com! I'm a huge fan of the harlequin print and anything that's bright enough to leave an aftercolor on your eyes.
Got a set of ordinary frames that need some souping up? Carefully deco the frames with swarovskis, like the lady I saw working at a chocolate shop this week!
Speaking of chocolate, look for chocolates that shimmer! Due to human composition, which actually contains trace amounts of gold and platinum, a small amount of these metals can be added to chocolate for a very out-of-this-world sweet.
If I learned anything from Baby it is that I am not spending enough money on poof! They seem to believe in about $400 worth of poof - each girl wore three to four petticoats. I would love to see more super-poof - try the Candy Violet Fluffy Petticoat for maximum take-off - it's like wearing pillows.
Go to used bookstores and buy old fairytale books. Some of my favorites are the Color Fairy Books (Pink Fairy Book, Blue Fairy Book) by Andrew Lang. You can actually read them online here, but I like having a real copy, myself. Then take it to a park or a Juliette balcony for a read.
Buy pink angel food cake and eat with whipped cream - delicious, sticky, cloud-like, and low in calories. Add an in-season fruit for actual nutritional content.
Take a day to let your hair, eyes, makeup, and feet rest - no product, no clogging extra makeup, no contacts, and no high heels. It'll be worth it.
Daydream about your own line of prints and draw them in your diary.
If you have a Japanese 100 yen or dollar store, go and hunt up all manner of cute things! I found, for only a $1.50 each: a teeny tiara comb, a strawberry printed bento box, a cherry bell cellphone charm, and a notepad with the character PRINCESS POODOLE.
Make or buy yourself some new bloomers for the end of summer and the beginning of autumn. I'm using some increasingly threadbare (but so comfy!) bloomers and should start fresh with pretty lacey ones for the colder months. Even if no one sees them, you'll know that even your underlayers are pretty - and besides, who wants to get caught with a bit of ragged lace in a gust of sudden wind?

Labels: style tips

Working for Baby, the Stars Shine Bright!

Phew! Incoming from the home stretch, Innocente Seraphim – InnoSera, the northwest’s first Lolita & BJD convention – is finally over! I’m still nursing my feet and sorting through the weekend’s photos, so I figured now was the perfect time to settle in with a cup of tea and write up the report for you, my wonderful readers!

I ended up working as an alternate for the Baby the Stars Shine Bright fashion show, which made a switch from my previous role in New York City as an Alice and the Pirates model. Working backstage was quite the trip – a way to get an inside peek of how a real lolita brand puts together a show. Since myself and my good friends Miss Julia and Miss Lumpy run the lolita events of Connecticon, it was very much the learning experience. How is a real lolita fashion show put together? In case this wasn’t made clear, the answer is: a lot of work!

First the girls were gathered and sorted out according to outfit. Baby had a master list of coordinates they had brought, each with its designated accessories and shoes; then they paired the girls to the outfits according to who seemed right. After this, everyone tried on their clothes for fit. I’ve never seen such complicated outfits! Not only were their the usual pieces you could buy in stores, like the recently released horoscope print from Alice and the Pirates, but also the fantastic showpieces made specially, like a long-trained wedding dress and a sweet print studded with swarovskis. I made one girl, Kelsey, my special project to get her in and out of her main outfit, as it included three petticoats, a pair of bloomers, and two separate hoop panniers! Not only that, but the outfit was originally designed to be worn with tights! The effect was splendid, but cut down the time between changes and it’s quickly realized why you need backstage help. Add in one girl’s belled jester shoes, another corset lacing, and everybody’s bows, and you get the picture. But I have to admit – the outfits were gorgeous and definitely worth the extra complications.

After the initial fitting the girls were herded downstairs for hair and makeup. Curls were dished out by the dozen and false eyelashes applied by a team of professional hair and makeup artists while everyone was provided with lunch. The stylists only asked for one payment – to see the show, VIP, and attend that afternoon’s tea party! They were very sweet and interested in the style, asking for feedback and our viewpoint on the aesthetic.

Commencing after we fumbled our way through several full-change run-throughs, to the beat of what seems to be Baby's idea of runway music: Japanese pop-ified Disney songs. My favorite is Ayumi Hamasaki's rendition of Some Day My Prince Will Come from Snow White.

And then, of course, the actual show occurred! Unfortunately I wasn't able to see it, as I was busy pinning and unpinning (the fastest I've ever learned to remove a girl's clothes, hurr hurr); but after the show, everyone was called forward and I asked Uehara-san, the main designer, to be in a photo with me. In the photo above you can see the beautiful flowers she was presented with! I am very pleased to say that the translator told her about my work in New York and she personally thanked me, which made all the of the effort quite worth it. Not only that, I took away great information and met some wonderful girls. Plus, of course, my new Baby purchases - glitter star Alice and the Pirates socks and Merry Castle Sweets skirt in a gorgeous mint crepe fabric.

One of the models also ran the Sunday show for showcasing American lolitas in their own personal style, and I decided to give that some love - and my wonderful pet project style, fairyloli! Baby's designers seemed to like the look, too - they were in the VIP section of the audience and waving their deco'd out cameraphones like no tomorrow!

I'll be discussing InnoSera in general and InnoSera's doll section shortly in another post, but suffice to say - hope to see you again next year!

Labels: event

Sunday, August 9, 2009

Race West: Lolita Fashion Houses

Today I worked backstage at the InnoSera Baby the Stars Shine Bright fashion show (and bought from their boutique!) and it started a discussion: who's on top of the American/western fashion scene, Angelic Pretty or Baby the Stars Shine Bright?

Usually I'd go with Angelic Pretty. They've incited the rise of sweet, from sugar to high fructose corn syrup of deco and now fairyloli; they've inspired girls to stay up late into the night to be able to reserve the coveted It Print first. The aftermarket prices keep soaring to double and sometimes triple the original value, and sometimes as many as five girls as once 'twin' (quintuplet?!) in the same dress. And after their recent catering to western audiences in the way of Yumemiru Musical Paradise, it seemed like a sure thing. Despite having risen to the top recently, they're one of the closest contenders for top brand.

But Baby has decided to fight them for the crown. Now they're opening their first American location in San Francisco, beating out Angelic Pretty to the first lolita boutique to be brick-and-mortar in the United States. It's also been discussed that if this boutique and subsequent opening turns out well, that they'll branch out to New York City. They've also been making the rounds to east and west coasts for fashion shows, with New York Anime Festival '08 and now InnoSera '09. A lot of girls have fond memories of Baby - they're practically legends. They starred, as a brand and a lolita Camelot - in Kamikaze Girls, one of the first inspirations for many starter lolitas. They've already launched a successful store in Paris, France - where I got my first brand dress. They've catered to many styles and possess an elegance that can only come with long seasoning and an elder-sister mentality. So, why are they so far, it seems, ranking number two?

It's about marketing. (Yes, my minor is coming through in a strong way!) I think of the strongest points Angelic Pretty has going for them is their ability to market through publications. Many overseas customers don't get to see the clothes in person before purchases; they're swayed by photos, both online and in increasingly available magazines. To take from my own experience: I don't usually fall in love with an Angelic Pretty piece until they reveal their full-page, shimmer-covered magazine ads, complete with roses and giant strawberries. In contrast, I prefer to buy Baby when I can see it in real life. My purchase today was a print I had seen and wasn't too excited about - but in person you can see the brightness of the colors, the tiny detail in the buttons and images, and the soft vintage-style crepe fabric that I love in their other pieces. In photos, these details are lost.

To get ahead in the western lolita's pocketbook, they need to understand the shopping experience of the western lolita. When you sell a product, you're also selling an experience, which the consumer connects to emotionally. Was it a happy experience that worked out with minimum hassles, or was it a nightmare to complete? The brands do understand the power of customer loyalty - it's a big deal in Japan, to remain loyal to your brand house while they shower you with incentives like tea party admissions and points cards. If they brought that to the west, they'd see a steep incline in shoppers. Currently, brand loyalty is a mere novelty - rarely do girls buy only from one. But if they received the same incentives, brand loyalty would become much more common. Both Angelic Pretty and Baby have made a few steps in these directions, but so far Baby has made more of a connection. They're eager to attend events, even small ones; and they're taking the big leap of the San Francisco boutique.

This is only half of the equation, however. By not focusing on their main marketing tool, publications, they're losing a valuable attention span of their audience. Baby only puts out a few coordinate photos, and these aren't usually that spectacular. I'm a collector of their postcards, which are absolutely beautiful - I'd love to see those images floating around more, in both magazines and the internet.

So far, Angelic Pretty has the publications; Baby is making the in-store connection necessary to sell their products to the discerning buyer with a set budget. Most lolitas only have the bank account for an either-or choice when it comes to buying a new dress; both of the brands need to connect with their buyers in both arenas. The real question is, who is going to catch on first? Is it a matter of taste, or a matter of marketing? Who's really going to win the superiority of top brand outside of Japan?

If the lion and the unicorn are fighting for the crown, who is going to get drummed out of town?

Labels: discussion

Friday, August 7, 2009

Frills to Fairy: One Skirt, Two Ways

So, in celebration of the fact that Pink Macaroon has just released its second wave of Unicorn Fantasy skirts, I decided to do a little Kera-style showcase of the print! Mine, as you may know, is the yellow colorway - and I'm in love with it. I'm also in love with fairy-kei and more specifically, fairyloli, so I wanted to cover that some more.

This skirt can go both ways - as a typical sweet lolita skirt for those who prefer softer, more tradtional coordinates, and as a super-crazy, bright fairyloli ensemble. Here's how to take this outfit from sugar to spice!

I switched out the white, lace topped socks (BABY the Stars Shine Bright) to no socks, and added these open-toe lilac and crystal shoes. You could keep some glittery pastel socks with this look but I'm not sure how I feel about open-toe + socks (some people hate it, others think it's fine) so the socks got the pink slip.

I went scrounging around at ValuVillage (somewhere between a thrift store and a Marshall's) and came up with this glitter silver belt. It adds some fascination to the waist and cost me $3. I saw this idea in Alice Deco a La Mode (vintage belts) and love it :)

Pink suspenders add the color to this that the pink BABY bustier did to the sweet outfit, with a peppier neon. The heart RECYCLE button gives it that campy flair, and advertises going green (I know, flair is a pun. I'm sorry, I just can't quit).

The giant glasses. I know, everyone is thinking I lost my mind! These are non-prescription hot pink frames, and I actually wear my contact lenses behind them. Because they're so huge, they frame the eyes without casting the shadows on your undereye circles. I'd love to see these done with circle lenses. They're pretty common in fairy-kei coordinates that I see in Kera, so when I found a pair, I had to do it.

The soft curls got teased into a side pony with an 80s bow instead of the headbow.

The chunky bracelet adds a slap of color to go with the shoes. Fairyloli doesn't require matchy-matchy style, but encourages complimenting colors of the same palette, so the lilac hilights the look well.
Want to go totally fairy? Ditch the petticoat and add a tee-shirt (maybe with ponies or Care Bears?) to mostly eradicate the lolita influence. Or, if you want more lolita, add wrist cuffs (preferably lilac), knee-high socks, and an even bigger or more amount of bows.

I've heard quite a few girls say lately that they like fairy lolita or like the traditional, more toned down styles, or perhaps prefer to dress more toned down but want the option of playing it up. This skirt can cater to all of those needs! And I hope this shone a little more light on how to wear fairy-kei in a style that is still definitively lolita.

You can see more of this outfit by looking at my daily_lolita post, including a close-up of the mentioned accessories.

Labels: fashion, guide

Monday, August 3, 2009

Lolita Charm's First Anniversary!

I can’t believe it! Lolita Charm is having its first birthday today! It seems like Lolita Charm has always been a part of my life, it’s hard to imagine a time when I wasn’t gathering new blog fodder or spending my mornings with an open post box, typing up the day’s article (like I’m doing now – with tea, in pajamas!)

Lolita Charm started simply because I seemed to have the gift of rambling and few people to read it: posting to lifestyle_lolis wasn’t cutting it for me, and I wanted to expand my topics anyway. I was actually inspired to start a blog by Dollpart, who was one of the newest lolita blogs of the current generation. I spent about ten minutes pondering a name, and then signed up – Lolita Charm was born! (Fun fact: It was almost named Lolita Complex!)

The mission statement, which was the first post, declared that it wanted to be both the charm of the bracelet of its readers’ lives and promote the nature of being charming. I think I can say that this aim has been successful. What began with merely fashion articles has become so much more than that – an in-depth analysis and questioning of our culture. The ‘discussion’ articles are some of the ones I am most proud of, and seem to generate the most interest. But the other things that have occurred on Lolita Charm are also such jewels – photoshoots taken on lazy afternoons with my fellow blogger, Miss Lumpy (to whom I owe so much!), the work with Pink Macaroon, and the documentation of LoliGirls. Working on my blog has made me so happy, and then there are the readers.

Every single person who has ever read this blog has just absolutely made my day. Every new follower, every hit, ever time this blog is shared elsewhere, just lights me right up. This blog has been my magnum opus and baby for the last year and whenever I write it, I am thinking of you. Yes, you, in front of the computer screen! You have fueled Lolita Charm into being what it is. Now, at one year old, 40,000+ hits, and over 100 followers, Lolita Charm is one of the top lolita blogs currently available!

Lolita Charm is going to continue to grow and evolve. If you’ve been reading this blog for a while, you’ve probably seen it already – more lifestyle, more positivity, branching out. Now that I have started branching out into different styles of lolita, as well, this will no longer be a sweets-only oriented blog. Expect more classic, Gothic, aristo, fairy, steamlita, and all the rest! And the topics of the posts will most likely include more events, more culture, and as requested, more hair, makeup, and nails! If there is any particular feature you enjoy, don’t hesitate to ask!

I’m not going to dish out any more sap, I promise! I already feel enough like this is the graduation of my firstborn. So I’ll wrap it up! But I do have a little something for you, the readers, just to say… thank you.

Image links are finally available for LC! How to use: save to your own computer, then upload to an image host like Photobucket, Tiny Pic, etc; then use the img and link tags to stick anywhere you want – your profile, your own blog, or your community!

Labels: thank you

Saturday, August 1, 2009

Lolitas And Conventions

I just got back from Connecticon (my second year in a row!) and of course, it was the usual con affair. I saw, in no particular order: a crossdressing Sailor Moon with a beard, a guy in a long black jacket who insisted on a hug, a girl dressed as a sexy pikachu, and then I ended up hanging out with a crewful of steampunk pirates. Not to mention the usual cat-eared, tailed, or fairy-winged visitors, all sipping lattes in the hotel lobby and camped on the carpeting floor of the exhibition hall. In the sea of it all you can spot a few rufflebutts, petticoats spread across several seats, looking somewhere between at home and worlds away.

Lolitas at conventions can go one of two ways. The first is that they've been congoers, or interested in con topics, for quite a while - that might even be how they got into it in the first place. Or perhaps they've never had an interest in the conventions and are just going to soak up or bring the few lolita events that will be present. In some cases there is even a division or a dislike from the lolitas directed at the otaku visitors. Even I can sometimes be seen cringing at a poorly done cosplay, or being hit on by yet another furry (?!) But in this last con, I was more involved with the con itself and the people working it, and from this I've learned a few things.

Lolitas At the Anime Convention

Keep an open mind about anyone you meet. If you're instantly turned off by and outfit or a fandom, you might miss out on making a good friend. Even the most unusual people at conventions, I think, have a great deal of courage. They have probably designed and made, or bought, their own outfits specially, and are sometimes in character. That takes as much guts as it does to wear lolita! I'm proud of anyone I see dressing out of the ordinary. They took a chance and I think that's commendable.
Accept compliments gracefully. Many people may comment on your clothes, most likely nicely (as this is an atmosphere sponsoring other people aquainted with Japanese pop culture). If this is the case, just say thank you. Nothing else need be done!
Give compliments often! If you see someone whose outfit is especially beautiful, or from your favorite anime, don't be afraid to say hello or mention that you love seeing their outfit. I was lucky enough to witness a Princess Tutu cosplay and several other beautiful characters I didn't even recognize. Every little compliment like that makes that person light up inside and be happy they decided to dress up. And isn't that something we want to support, as people who know the power of a well-placed compliment?
Don't be afraid to cross over with other genres of people. Even if you think you have nothing in common with a group of people swapping Pokemon cards, you never know! If anyone is friendly to you, return the favor.
Realize you're the minority. There are not nearly as many lolitas at the convention as there will be cosplayers or general anime lovers, so now is the time to realize you're mostly in somebody else's sandbox. So please be respectful of them. They came to enjoy what is mostly their hobby, and the con has probably been made possible by similar people.
Be encouraging and respectful to any new lolitas you meet. A lot of girls get their start from a few bad outfits worn to cons, and that's perfectly fine. They could blossom into beautiful lolitas in time, maybe even with a helping hand from you! Even girls who are considered 'doing it wrong' can shape up, or perhaps they have something to contribute besides their clothes! (I know, gasp!)
Don't start drama on site if at all possible. Real life drama is a pain for anyone around you. Even if you're not on good terms with so-and-so, or she's wearing something awful, keep it to yourself. If you really need to vent, talk to friends later in private or write it out in a personal journal. Making drama is messy and looks trashy, which are not things we want lolita to be associated with! Besides, wouldn't you rather have fun instead of worrying about who said what? Keep that negativity far away from you!
Even if you're just there for the lolita events, see if there is anything else that interests you. The best way to go to a con is to get involved! Is there another subculture or genre that you're interested in? Would you like to see a panel discussing magical girls, or see Mario and Luigi perform a duet? The more you get involved, the happier you'll be with the outcome of your experience.
You are allowed personal space. If someone is too pushy or tries to hug you without your permission, you are allowed to tell them to stop. Don't be afraid to stand up for your personal rights. Just because you're dressed cutely does not make you a novelty for them to enjoy. I've seen people 'glomp' their favorite character without any respect for the person in the costume, which is pretty terrible. However, I was approached by the previously said guy in long black coat, who politely asked for a hug, and though bewildered, rewarded his courtesy with the hug.
Treat service people well. Staying at a convention can get messy and include wet towels, banana peels, late-night runs to Dunkin' Donuts, and an endless supply of fliers and receipts. Take care of your things as well as you can, like picking up after yourself. Be polite to any servers or hotel personnel, and remember to tip your maid and bellboy. For convention tipping help, click here.
Bring calling cards or business cards! The people you've connected with will probably want to keep up with you online. Lolita calling cards are popular right now (yes, I have some! I'll have to write about those, too!) and serve a useful function. The bare minimum you should include is your name or handle, at least one place they can find you on the internet, and perhaps a tagline about yourself, for example, 'Jane Doe, lover and sewer of lolita fashion, janedoeslivejournal.com'. Some good places for people to follow you are Livejournal, Twitter, an email, a Facebook or Myspace page, or if you sell anything, an etsy profile or web page.

A good lolita has manners that go everywhere, even to big events and places with a more unusual clientèle. If nothing else, I hope that lolitas are defined not just by their appearance, but hopefully by their best trait: 'a joy to be around'. (Like on report cards in grade school, does anyone remember the comment 'a joy to have in class'?) Even when out of her element, she does her best to be classy.

In contrast to the typical con atmosphere, I'll be at InnoSera next weekend, which is entirely populated by lolitas and doll-owners, so it will be interesting to see what that is like! Tomorrow I'm flying out to Seattle, so expect more soon!

I'd also just like to add that the Connecticon Fashion Show was a wonderful success and there will be photos along soon. I was dressed in supremely dark Gothic lolita and loved it! Plus, the last shoot for the documentary, LoliGirls, was wrapped up - ready to premiere in September!

Labels: documentary, event, guide, manners

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