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Lolita Charm: A Lolita's Temptation

Sunday, November 21, 2010

A Lolita's Temptation

I've never been quite sure where I stand on lolita replicas. I own a few Bodyline knockoffs, such as Innocent World's puppy jumperskirt. All of my lolita-specific shoes are some kind of copy - I've never bought brand shoes before. Even my wonderful new boots (which I haven't taken off since! agh, so comfortable!) are really Chinese replicas of the infamous Doc Martens. But I always drew the line at bigger things, like replicas dresses and skirts, especially prints. Lately however, my resolve is wavering.

For one, replicas used to be lower in quality. Thin fabric, cheap lace and odd print placement were rampant. Some of the first Angelic Pretty skirt replicas were cute enough, but tacked with long strands of scratchy, 99-cent lace. Newer replicas have netlace that, while not being quite as delicately embroidered and logo-covered as the real thing, is soft and has a similar effect. Replica producers are even using leftoer fabrics and ribbons directly from the brand - it's not uncommon to see replicas that still bear the name of their ancestor, Angelic Pretty. These replicas wristcuffs even say Angelic Pretty, just like the real thing.


For another, it seems like brand competition is getting stiffer. Angelic Pretty's Twinkle Star bag sold out so fast I don't know a single person who got their hands on it. But to everyone's relief, replicas will be out soon from Chinese producers. Not only are they more affordable, but there's just more of them. Angelic Pretty and other brands have long focused on being 'exclusive' by, so it seems, undersupplying demand, causing sky-rocketing aftermarkets. There's even talk now of replicating the infamous Sugary Carnival, a print dress that still sells for aroud $400 - $500 dollars.

A few samples of the replica Twinkle Star pochettes. This replica does look a little off to me.

You can now get plenty of 'replica lolita' including:
  • skirts
  • dresses (jumperskirt and onepiece)
  • shoes
  • hairbows
  • wristcuffs
  • coats
  • purses
If you're on a fixed budget, or a new girl in love with brand but out of love with brand prices, this could be your best option. I consider replicas useful to my wardrobe especially if the original is sold out or no longer available. I also like to wear lolita fashion as much as possible, and lower-priced clothing or replicas are a great way for me to pad my wardrobe with pretty things, while saving money. The average brand lolita skirt, new, will probably cost about $180 or more depending on the current status of the yen. To have enough skirts to keep up a day-to-day wardrobe can be a wallet-breaking expense for many girls.

Several of my friends noted that replica brands will often make their items in 'bespoke' which means to your measurements. Brand again pulls the exclusivity card by selling one-size-fits-all... unless, of course, it doesn't fit you. Another friend mentioned that she'd rather by the real thing in the face of 'replica stigma', where you're looked down on for purchasing the knock-off and supposedly disrespecting the original brand name and designers.

While I was writing this article I ran across this video on the nature of fashion and copyright. I'm a business major eyeing the notion of eventually working in the fashion industry (marketing and sales, not design) and I gotta say this kind of thing fascinates me. It answers a lot of the questions lolitas have puzzled over as we look at first the original, then the replica, and back again.





I was amazed to see that replicas, what the speaker calls 'fast fashion' or part of the trickle-down fashion effect, are actually what starts trends. For something to be a trend, someone has to take a hefty amount of inspiration from someone else - something we often calls copying. And replicas lead to what we're seeing very commonly in lolita fashion - the 'democritzation' of fashion. If anything, the replica has helped spread the Angelic Pretty version of lolita over a further economic demographic, over further reaches, making them ever more the face of sweet lolita. The idea of Angelic Pretty's lolita - is that something we should consider a closed circuit, or should it be allowed to grow and expand? The idea of lolita originally came from the streets; much Japanese fashion still does, as we can see the forerunners of fairy-kei having their ideas produced into boutiques like Nile Perch and Spank!.

It all comes down to individual choice. But it is fascinating to see exactly how fashion circulates. Do replicas deserve their 'stigmas' if copying and inspiration are the powerhouses behind the fashion world to begin with? Is exclusivity something we should cultivate, or is it better to open up the world of lolita fashion to anyone who wants to enjoy the designs and beauty? Is copyright even going to be a lasting notion in a world increasingly based on free exchange of knowledge and ideas?

By the way - I've changed the commenting system to Disqus and it's being a glitchy right now. Even when it says 0 comments, they're just not registering on my Blogger template. So don't be afraid to leave comments! Hopefully they'll be working soon.

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3 Comments:

At November 22, 2010 at 1:18 AM , Anonymous Heather Liane said...

I like your post! ^^ And I JUST bought some Bodyline shoes TODAY. So this was really informative and good to read. I guess the thing with Brand vs. Knockoff for me is:
NONE of the brand things fit me. It's not even the price. But the brand is made for Japanese (who we all know are super skinny and super tiny), and Americans come from allllll different body types, therefore not being able to fit into most brand name Lolita. -sigh-

 
At November 23, 2010 at 12:56 AM , Anonymous Tealparadise said...

I don't want to come off as argumentative, but the other side of the coin is that, actually, living with your parents and having a job creates quite a lot of money. I never realized how much money I spent when that was my situation, until suddenly I moved out and had a 400/mo rent to pay, 30/mo electric, 40/mo tv&internet, 40/week groceries, etc etc etc. So I have to submit that most people who are into lolita (in the US at least) do not have the kind of money you are talking about.

It would take me a month of not getting coffee even once, or eating out, or buying so much as a new pair of socks, to afford a brand dress. Thus I don't have any brand, and always feel bad wearing whatever Bodyline or off-brand I've been able to afford. It's not that I'm poor, but I'm a student and I'm not willing to take out any loans simply to finance an obsession with pretty dresses.

 
At November 24, 2010 at 4:03 AM , Anonymous Liwaen said...

I own just one brand "Atelier Pierrot skirt" I've been lucky enough to get it for 60euros at Japanexpo! but I wouldn't have afforded myself to pay 120 euros, the original price!
I think some of th brands have some aweful sewing qualities, but it is rare. I've once ordered a copy, and I was really disgusted, I tried to wear it one time, but it didn't even fitted me right, and the finishings were poorly made.
Waht I go for is the quality of the fabrics, and the finishings. the details has to be nicely done. But I still think the dresses lolita brands sell are not UNIQUE, and that I've seen UNIQUE dresses, custom made, being loads cheaper than these!
what you pay for is the BRAND and marcketing ladies!

 

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